Fire The Scriptwriter

Author: Maja

Prologue

Maja’s Diary

Stockholm, Thursday 11 February, 2021

I feel devastated. Absolutely horrible. Life isn’t easy right now. My chest is tight and it burns. I feel cornered with nowhere to go. I want to concentrate on something fun, like playing bass. Preparing for an audition maybe, but my brain simply will not let me focus. 

Last Friday I made a couple of phone calls to friends to look for a place to stay in case my home situation became unbearable. Well, here we are. I have one possibility. My dear friend Alexander. Me and Alexander go deep, and have been hanging out regularly since we were about fifteen. So when I called him and told him about the situation last week he said he was going to check with his flatmate/landlord who I quite like. I wouldn’t mind staying with them for a while. They have an extra little sleeping alcove which I could make a bit of a refuge home out of. But a couple of days later Alexander got back to me to say they’d turned the little alcove into a home office for the landlord. However, he said I could stay in his room, probably making a space for myself in a corner, but added I would be able to do that for a maximum of two weeks. My heart dropped hearing this. He is the only one of my friends living independently enough to be able to casually have someone stay over. No matter who else I asked, I would only be a huge burden. And since I don’t really feel comfortable telling my parents of my situation yet, I can’t really stay there. Even if everything got worse and I told them what’s been happening, staying there for too long isn’t something I’d like to do if I can avoid it. Instinctively I know I’m welcome there if I need to, but it’s really not an option I’d prefer right now.

I’ve also been looking around for rentals just for myself but that’s almost impossible; Stockholm has a queuing system for apartments which you can pay to be on which you can enter when you turn 18. I’ve been on it for close to 10 years now. Even if I tried to take advantage of that, it would take months from now for anything to actually happen. There’s always the second hand market, but that’s dodgy and uncertain. And it’d probably be a no pets policy. I wouldn’t want to get involved in that right now.

So, what are my options? Well, I could stay where I am and endure the terms that have been newly imposed upon me. I could decide to not put up with it anymore and take Alexander up on his offer. But for just two weeks? And after that move where? To nowhere? A hotel? The street? With a puppy? It simply isn’t happening. No way I am able to pull that off. Not this suddenly, by myself.

I haven’t been able to eat properly for two weeks. The immense stress has made it impossible for me to eat any kind of proper meal. I’ve been trying to eat protein bars but have barely been able to stomach 500 calories a day. For reference, the recommended average is 2000 calories. The stress all this has caused has also made me sleep even worse than usual. Last night I managed to sleep a couple of hours, dropping off somewhere after 5 am, and then forcing myself up at 10. And that’s pretty decent by any recent standards. The insomnia combined with the relationship based stress combined with the inability to eat is starting to show its effects. I’ve been able to hide it from anyone I know so far, but with what happened yesterday I am now itching to talk about it with someone. 

I try to forget about it and do what I have to do next, as one of the demands I have upon me. I have to train. I don’t want to, I want to sleep. I feel absolutely drained, lethargic. But I change into my training clothes and get started. Today I feel too tired to do anything too strenuous, so I am going for yoga. I bring out my book and mat and try to focus on the exercises. They’re physically challenging, and it also takes quite a lot of a mental effort for me to both stay focused on it and on myself. I manage to get a little calmer, but I am seriously bothered. 

My freedom has been taken away from me. Completely. 

I hate it.

I. Absolutely. Loathe. It. 

Even something as relatively simple as being in a band is an unattainable dream right now.

At least I still have my phone on me. But I don’t feel like I can really just call any of my friends and tell them about what’s been happening to me. It’s just too much to explain. How do you tell them that something is even wrong to begin with? No-one even really knows that I am feeling unhappy. Except one person. Mark. And he is not connected to any of my other friends, so word will not get around.

So I message him. I am not sure of how to approach it. He was busy yesterday, so he doesn’t know that anything bad has happened yet. The text-chat starts normal. Fun even, and goes into the night. It’s a relief just to talk about normal things, even if I know it is all coming to an end. But I really want to tell someone what has happened to me. It is eating me up inside. So I start slowly with telling him about the situation I am in. I am startled when I see what comes back from him. 

‘Call me in two minutes.’

Mark’s Diary

London, Thursday February 11, 2021

Just another day helping Maja with her set, although we nudge things in a much more professional direction when we hit on the concepts of articulation and consistency which she thinks will take her playing to the next level. I really think it will, especially when it comes to the job of holding down the solid end in a professional cover band. That and repertoire of course, which we’re covering as quickly as possible.

We chat about a few other things, including her getting more into yoga which I’m delighted to hear. This is really cool and another thing I’m sure I can help with, a tip or two here and there.

We carry on for a while talking about fun stuff and I think we’re getting ready to wind up and maybe I’ll look at another song or two before going to bed. I’m really enjoying getting into this with her. It’s giving me so much great stuff to practice in terms of so many basics and repertoire, as I’m learning the songs at the same time as well. But then Maja drops a message on me, saying that her husband has threatened to end their relationship again. But she also says that she’s getting jaded with this now and that no matter what she does, she feels it isn’t good enough.

She tells me now that this happened yesterday but she didn’t feel ready to tell me until now. All of a sudden, those nice little thoughts I had a little while ago about jolly yoga chats are gone. There would have been nothing jolly about those chats. Nothing at all.

We get serious in text now as she also says she feels controlled from all angles and trapped. I say this sounds like she’s looking for an exit. Yes, yes she is. So what’s stopping her? ‘Not having the slightest idea how to do that. Simply put, I’m afraid.’

My reply is instant. ‘Call me in two minutes.’ She does. With that I step outside into the cold to go for a walk and take a phone call. It will be the most significant call I’ve ever had and it will change entire lives, including mine.

Mark’s Introduction

It’s just past 4am on Saturday June 5, 2021. We’re in Stockholm, where we’ve been since late Sunday night, so just short of a week. As has happened every night since the day we arrived, I’m already up and wide awake. I might go back to sleep later, I might not. At the time of writing I have no idea. Also at the time of writing, we are around three and a half months behind, by far the furthest I’ve ever been behind in Diaryworld. We? Yes, we’re an item. In every way. Emotionally, musically, professionally, aspirationally. Might as well get that out there. It’s kinda implied in the title, so it’s hardly spoiler. As for this early, middle of the night bout of writing, you can thank the summer Stockholm sun for that. Right now it never really gets fully dark, and by around 3:30am the sun is shining bright. So yeah, almost a week in and I’m still rising with it. Sometimes I go back to sleep, sometimes I don’t.

A little background incase you’re coming to this cold. I started my writings back in July 2014 when I took off from Madrid to the Costa Blanca in Spain to see if I could make a living playing bass for the summer.

Around six years to the day later, Maja began her own Diary, choosing her starting date as the day she picked up the bass and started learning from scratch. So her Diary really does start on day zero. If you want more context for what’s in here as you go forwards, going back and reading hers from day one would be a pretty good place to start because it contains the story of how we met through the SBL forum and innocently began working on bass related projects together, just like so many people have in there. At the same time, we were also working on website bits and pieces. That story begins somewhere December 2020 when she first got in touch, having read the entirety of my Diary in a matter of two or three months. She just wanted to say hi through the thread, but also had an idea of how she might be able to use her professional internet experience to help out. Make a website for me maybe. In return, I’d become her bass mentor, maybe. Yes, both of those things happened.

If you want the full on experience, my own piece encompasses five actual Diaries, almost 2000 pages and covers around six and a half years, which you’ll already know if you’ve sufficiently done the maths. I always had a feeling that, as big as my thing was getting, it was really just prologue. And so it’s proved to be. The real story starts now.

There are a few reasons we’re so far behind in starting to really tell it, and also why hardly anything has appeared for so long in either of our individual Diaries. The first is that a lot of what you’re about to read simply couldn’t be made public before now for reasons which we hope will become clear.

Another reason is that when we first started really communicating in a serious way beyond music, it all just seemed way too private to go in anyone’s diary, and none of it seemed relevant to the kinds of diaries we were both writing at the time. As a result, no notes were made and there were no attempts to mark or try to remember anything. Ditto for the early days after we first actually met. But then thoughts turned to music we could make together and we realised the Diaries were starting up all over again, but as a joint project this time. Cue frantic retroactive note making. What follows is the story of our music, and the story of our music will be the story of us.

Stockholm, Saturday June 5, 2021.

Maja’s introduction

I never imagined that my story would get told. At least not like this. And I certainly didn’t imagine that my story would be a story of music. But the story needs to get told. As I’ve been living it, there have been things that are too important to be left forgotten in time. These stories have a life of their own, and I feel obliged to tell them. To let them breathe, to share them and let them live through you as well.

I never had taken any platform to express my stories, but now, carefully writing my diaries, and my music, I finally have a way to express myself. The means of expressing myself like this is new to me, but even when I stumble, weighted by inexperience, I want to tell my stories.

If the story is alive enough, it will find its way to you. It will suck you in and make you feel. It will be alive through you.

And that is what I want to give you, while sharing my life, my dreams and my stories with you.

I hope you want to follow me along. Through the ups and downs, standing in the rain by the highway in the dark, or just to a nice sunny Saturday afternoon rehearsal. My dear friend and companion. 

Maja, Stockholm, Saturday June 5, 2021.

Day minus seven

Friday February 12

Mark:

Damn. I can’t believe it. Ten thirty in the morning and Maja’s been on this already. A little hello chat and she says, ‘I think my driver’s licence should work.’ What now? That’s all she says about it as an introduction. Not, ‘I’ve been thinking about it,’ not, ‘Were you serious what you said last night?’ No. ‘I think my drivers licence might work.’ ‘That tells me someone’s been thinking,’ I say. ‘Of course, ‘she shoots back.’ Alright. I’ll leave it alone. Someone’s in the serious tree. I climb up and join her. It’s begun. This is her plan. She’s going to move here in her car, crossing a whole bunch of countries in a 22 hour drive. And she isn’t planning a quick visit either. This is a full on move she’s contemplating as demonstrated by her next message. The government website for applying for a Global Talent Visa. You see, here’s the thing that’s going to underpin so much of what is to follow. And for the first time, on just day two of this new diary, we’re going to have to go full on political. There’s just no avoiding it anymore. In all previous writings I’ve tried, at every turn, to keep things totally out of that sphere. When I’ve absolutely absolutely had to, I’ve dipped the tippiest tip of a little toenail in the freezing cold and stormy waters and then got the hell out of there. But I’m afraid through quite a bit of this we’re gonna have to go full commando, take a deep breath and dive in and swim. I’ll keep us up for air as much as possible. 

The reason? Brexit. Sorry, but it’s out. I’ve said it. If Maja has any aspirations at all to live and work in the UK, and it seems she is suddenly at least considering to have, proper accesses and documentations are going to have to be followed because UK and European citizens no longer enjoy freedom of work and movement between each others’ territories. So if Maja wants to come here and attempt any kind of working relationship with the UK, she’ll have to jump through all the hoops previously associated with going to live in the USA or Australia. The UK is out of the European loop now.

So yes, she’s been looking at how to get a visa and, as far as she can see, the Global Talent thing seems the most likely. I revisit my doubt and say it now. ‘Wow, so your mind’s made up?’ I get the reply in three messages.

‘Pretty much.’ 

‘I dunno.’ 

‘But yeah.’

We have a little delve into it and it very quickly becomes clear this will not be a quick fix. Everything is just so complicated and involved and there are a lot of steps to go through which can take weeks at a time. It looks like she won’t be coming anytime soon afterall. But that’s not how Maja rolls. Dammit, she says. Can’t I just come as a tourist and do this later? You know what? I think that might just work. And as she says right now, she can be here legally as a tourist for six months. During that time we should be able to sort something out if she decides to really look at that. Maja is in no doubt. ‘When I get a job, they’ll fix that for me.’ Let’s get something up front and out there now. Maja will not be coming here to work in the back of a coffee shop, or pour pints next to me in the bar job I most assuredly would be able to get her, at my place or someone else’s. No. Maja’s fish are somewhat bigger. Somewhat huger. Among other things she’s a cloud engineer. Which basically means she designs, maintains and manipulates the infrastructure that makes the internet work. That computer game you’re playing with your buddies who live all over the world? Chances are she developed and then maintained the software that allowed the game to even exist in that format. She’s done similar jobs for governments and corporations across nations in aspects of projects even the managers knew nothing about. To say there might be a bit of a demand on her services here would be to call the goldrush a goldgentlestroll. So yeah. It’s fair to imagine that a prospective employer would gladly throw whole sections of their admin department at securing her services and making sure they stayed secured.

With this, we start looking at it in full earnest, researching how to come here and what the legals are. Oh. We’ve covered Brexit as one political thing, but I’m afraid we have to look at another one now. Coronavirus. You see, I’m not sure if you’re aware of this or not, but we’re in the middle of a pandemic. London is in lockdown and travel restrictions of varying levels are in place all over the world, including a lot of outright travel bans. Once more we delve into the official websites and come up with the little gem that there’s no travel ban for Swedish citizens into the UK, but there is a 10 day quarantine required. And they’re really not messing about with this; failure to comply could actually result in jailtime. ‘Well, if you help me out with groceries I’ll be fine,’ she says. Yep. Done. And a Covid test has to be taken and proved negative before travel. OK. That will be something to have a look at in a little more detail later. So it seems that’s the two biggies out of the way. She’s looking at flights now, as a possible alternative to driving over. It’s way cheaper, she says. OK. It seems she’s just taken a breath to think about all this because she comes back with, ‘I’m just mildly surprised by the reality. My head just spins with all the ifs right now.’ Yep. This is starting to feel pretty real and it’s only midday. It’s less than 12 hours ago that I spoke those four little words. You Could Come Here.

So yes, we’re really doing this. Basic practicalities get discussed now, including the fact that she could soon have a place to call her own in London. And a place that is now going at 20 per cent its pre pandemic price with no deposit is required. However, I’m very keen to stress that it’s part a five person house share, and is a tiny, tiny room. That doesn’t cool the waters one bit. ‘It’s huge to think that I could have a place to call my own,’ she says. ‘Just enormous for me.’ 

Maja then asks about Jenn. Does she know about this as a possibility? Yes, we’ve had that chat and she’s cool with it. And I’ve made sure Elvin, the guy currently in the room, is definitely leaving on the 19th. But I tell her there’s no need to actually aim for that date as I can totally hold the room. I have a great relationship with the landlord and he pretty much lets me organise things around here. With that, she tells me that once he’s left she’ll pay for it even if she’s not arrived yet. She’ll even pay before he leaves, just to be absolutely sure it’s held. She just wants to make sure it doesn’t disappear from under her. ‘Of course it will be held,’ I say. ‘Don’t have this on your worry list.’ And I add that the rent can be paid through me and I can deal with things this end, which means she knows she’s dealing with the de facto decision maker. ‘You’re like a mini landlord,’ she says. Not quite, but I can see how it might look. 

Yes. This is really happening now. I get straight on the phone to the landlord to tell him of the new incoming tenant. He says he’ll make the contract up right away and date it from the 19th. I get back to Maja with this news and I think I make her head spin. ‘It’s really getting sorted now,’ she says. ‘That’s crazy. I haven’t even told anyone about this and suddenly I have a place in London. Amazing.’

Now she goes full on practicalities. What to bring, what not to bring, how and when to tell people. Oh, everything’s spinning everywhere now. And more covid stuff keeps coming; as well as a negative test to be able to get on a plane, she’s now discovered that two tests have to be taken during quarantine. We have no idea how this gets organised or anything, but this is happening now so we put that on the later pile, although it really can’t be too much later. The 19th looks like a date around which this thing will revolve although I expect things to really happen quite a bit after that. But hey, she has a room in London sorted out already and that’s just about the biggest thing in any move anywhere.

I was supposed to have to leave soon for a rehearsal with Sarah, but she just messaged me to see if we can move it to Sunday. No problem. So Maja now asks if I can talk. I can. Five minutes later she’s on the phone. But there’s no excitement in her voice. As much as it might seem, this is no time for excitement. For a start, there are still so many things to organise. But second, it’s too cold to go out where she is so she’s calling me from the apartment while her husband is still there. It’s a whispered conversation while she stays in the bedroom, carefully monitoring the doorknob so that she won’t be caught talking about, well, all the stuff we’re talking about. We’re on the phone for about two hours but as soon as we hang up, my messenger pings again. ‘I’m alone?’ she writes. ‘And it’s dark in the apartment. I knew it was gonna burn soon.’ This is just as we’re coming to 7pm. 

Maja: 

I put the phone down and brace myself to open the bedroom door, mentally preparing myself to handle whatever comes next. What’s going to get thrown at me now? I have no choice but to leave. My puppy Tommy clearly needs to go pee. Trembling, I hold my hand on the handle and slowly push the door. As it opens, I see the apartment is dark. It’s just totally dark. There’s no-one there. I go through to the living room just looking around. Then I open the bathroom and kitchen doors. ‘Hello. Is anyone there?,’ I shout. I even check in the closet. Crazy, I know, but this is a crazy situation. He’s gone. Where the hell did he go? He was supposed to be working. Working at his desk in the living room as he does everyday. It’s minus 10 degrees outside. You don’t go for a walk in that kind of temperature. You just don’t. Not if you don’t have to. And he doesn’t have anywhere to go. What am I supposed to do now? First, I do what needs to be done, which is taking Tommy for a little walk so he can pee. I’m absolutely sure something bad has happened. I don’t know where he is. I don’t know what’s going to happen when he gets back and I have no idea how to prepare myself for that. All I can think of is to call Mark back and tell him about this. I do that while frantically walking in circles around the little stone garden close to my home. ‘Mark. He’s gone. He’s gone. He’s gone. What am I supposed to do now?’ We talk for a little bit, I calm down and then it comes to me. I’m not really sure how to do it but I realise I need to leave. Now. I go back inside, keeping Mark on the line while I try to find something I can eat this instant. I haven’t had anything to eat today at all. I find some cold cooked rice in the fridge and force myself to eat a couple of spoonfuls. It tastes horrible but that’s irrelevant. It’s food and food equals energy, which is all I need right now. What I’m going to do when he gets back doesn’t matter anymore. I’m not going to be here when he gets back. I say to Mark, ‘I’m leaving for my mum’s now. I can stay there at least until I’m ready to leave for the UK.’ I keep him on the phone while I take a suitcase and just start shoving clothes into it, grabbing whatever I see nearest to me each time I look up. All through this, Tommy is by my side. The suitcase is almost full and I’m just a minute or so away from walking out when I hear the door open. Into the phone, I kind of shout-whisper, ‘I gotta go,’ and hang up. 

In the same second, he comes back home. I cram the suitcase into the closet and force the door shut on it. Then I walk out into the living room and see him walking towards the sofa. He doesn’t look up, doesn’t say a word. Just reaches the sofa where he sits down and turns the TV on. I try to speak to him. Nothing. I ask where he’s been. I ask him a lot of things. I get no answer to any of it. He’s just silent, ignoring me, looking at the TV. Nothing’s on. It’s just the homescreen of Netflix with the movies you can choose. He looks at that, ignoring me, just blindly looking for something to put on. I’m kinda used to being treated like this, completely ignored. So I know that there’s only one way for me to really break the cycle. I need to say it. I need to. I don’t wanna. I’m fearing the words but they need to be said. So I sit down close to him, just in front of him. I pull up a chair so I can sit just in front of him, my face a couple of centimetres away from his. I look into his eyes and say it. I want a divorce. 

We have a long talk about this, and feelings are heated as the full gravity of the situation really starts to hit us. Seeing his remorse, I back down on my demand for a divorce and we settle on the reality that I will be going to London at least for a little while. I can’t handle living like this anymore, and if we’re ever going to get to a place where we can be decent with each other again we need to part ways right now. We talk for hours. When our words finally die out I excuse myself by telling him I have to go out and repark the car. With our severe winter weather, that’s just something we regularly need to do around here so the council can clear the road of snow in the morning. I take the opportunity of being alone again to call Mark to tell him what’s just happened.

Around three hours after we spoke she messages to say that she’s told him she’s leaving. For now at least. ‘Long conversation,’ she says. Now she wants to talk to me. I go out and wander the silent residential streets of Kentish Town, avoiding the busy roads as much as I can. It’s strange, this way of walking and talking late at night on deserted roads. This is lockdown London and no bars are open so no-one is on the streets. We basically cover what we’ve been writing about today in our chats, while she also tells me about what it’s like at home right now. She says she’s being treated kindly enough so it’s manageable, and she feels good now that the news is out. We chat for about an hour and then we’re both close to home so call it for the day. But there’s one more thing. Just after I’ve settled back in at home I get a ping. It’s a screengrab accompanied by the message, ‘This is the flight I’m thinking of.’ Then, in reference to all we’ve been talking about, ‘I can’t believe this is what it had to take to make it feel good again. Goodnight friend. I’m exhausted now.’ That makes two of us.

Now I have a closer look at the details of the possible flight she’s sent me. Damn. It’s this coming Friday.

Day minus five

Sunday February 14

Maja:

I am having a hard time realising that I am about to move to London. It is post Brexit, and during complete covid lockdown, so I don’t really have anything of the usual London to look forward to, but that is really not what this move is about. This move is about me getting some space for myself to actually relax and find myself. Anyone going through a rough part of a relationship knows the importance of just getting away for a bit if you’re not getting along. When a relationship becomes stressful, even during the times no arguments happen it can be stressful just being close to each other. 

I’ve really started to feel the need to be somewhere else for a while, and I am absolutely delighted with having found a place to go to. I’m happy with the friendship that has developed between me and Mark, and it feels like a good place for me to go to. I could just be there for a while, chill and let myself think about where to go next in life. 

Since I’ve decided to go ahead and move, there are preparations to make. I’ve spoken with my husband about it, and we’ve gotten to an OK place about it, so the next stage is to tell my family about it. We go there and I do that. They’re shocked and devastated with sadness. Over the next few days they will try more and more to persuade me not to go ahead with my plans, to just keep things as they are in Sweden. At times I will feel as though I’m demanded to justify my decisions and motivations, as though this was a negotiation with me having to stake my position then defend it. It is not. I am going, for my own sake. For no one else but me. But the discussions wear me down and I feel like I’m having to fight for the right to do things my way, in this moment, to live my own life on my own terms. In this, as the longest week of my life drags on, I start to feel more and more alone. Everyone around me is making me feel as though I have to struggle for every step I take. At times I will even feel as though I might not be able to head off on this short break that I need so much, if for no other reason than to make sense of where I am and to think of what could possibly be next. I certainly have no-one in Sweden I can speak to about all that. It really is a desperately sad and lonely time for me. How far are people ready to go to keep me here? Could they stop me from going? Would they? At times I’m really not so sure. Hints are certainly dropped.  When they are, they land like lead in my stomach. Oh this long long week feels like it will never end.

Mark:

In a chat today, as we’re going through the practicalities, which has become something of a watchword,  Maja suddenly remembers my experiences and says, ‘Oh yeah, I forgot. You also did the sudden London move thing. You’re like the ultimate Londoner for me.’ Not entirely sure about that, but yes, I see where she’s coming from. Now she mentions it, yes, I did do it in similar fashion in my dash from Madrid, but also in a much less secure way and with a pretty damn nasty landing too once the whole thing had crashed and burned on me. That whole homeless period with nothing but a corner of a friend’s room to call (extremely loosely) my own, no job, dwindling savings. If you can even call what I had savings. So yeah. I guess I do know what I’m talking about. But then, as she rightly points out, as much as she’s coming into a little more of a secure situation than I, ahem, enjoyed, I didn’t have Covid and lockdown London to contend with, so different challenges for different times. But security? She has the whole Brexit thing going on too as it’s not like she can come over here and start looking for a job if needed, but that’s a later issue. She has far greater priorities to think about than that like now, as she says, ‘I’m not usually a runner. But when I get there, I wanna run a little bit. Just from the joy of freedom.’ Yep. I think that’s about where it is right now.

Oh, but London walks. That’s really something to think about once she’s able to get out and about again and we talk about my own experience of that in the early days of Lockdown when I took my daily exercise allowance to go and see an iconically empty central London. If not quite as extreme, it’s still a little bit like that so that’s definitely something we can get out and see when the time comes.

So yes, we also have quite a bit to talk about, or rather she does, and I listen and pass a comment now and then. I was supposed to have rehearsal with Sarah today but that’s been put off again so when she asks I say that yes, I am free. The conclusion of today, at least on her domestic front, is that things have stopped burning so much and a kind of politeness has descended. Things certainly feel a little calmer. She’s also started to think in terms of a shorter visit. Maybe a timeframe of something like two months.

Day minus three

Tuesday February 16

Maja:

Today I am going to take the corona test for travel. In this time of Corona, travel is hard and there’s a lot of things that just need to be done correctly in the right order to avoid breaking any of the new corona laws. These laws have just appeared in several countries and are subject to change without any given notice, so it is really hard to know if you will be able to actually go through with any of your plans. So right now I have to take several new things into consideration. For one, it is the new demand to have a travel certificate that shows that you’re fit for travel with no sign of Covid. To travel from Sweden to the UK, you need something called a RT-PCR test which must be taken less than 72 hours from arrival in the UK. My flight will arrive at 5 PM UK time on friday. So that means that I need to take it later than 6 PM Swedish time today. I book a time for 6:50 PM just before that centre closes for the day and hope I’ll get the certificate in time before takeoff. These tests are surprisingly expensive. A trip to London isn’t that cheap, but if you account for these tests as well, any trip abroad suddenly becomes noticeably more expensive. The price is around 1300 SEK, which is about 130 euro. 

I arrive at the centre in time, after getting lost all over the mall it is in. It’s a little hole in the wall kind of store, with no visible personnel. It’s really hard to see that the place really exists, but after walking past it about 4 times I finally notice it. I have to call a button and then a man in a labcoat comes out. He greets me and say that today’s delivery to the lab have already gone, do you want to take the test anyway? This means that I won’t get the results until the next night, but the taken test time will remain the same. I’m OK with that, I don’t want to come back here and it’ll be in time for my flight anyway so I go in to take the test. He checks my passport and we walk into the inner room which looks like a mix between a laboratory and an examination room. There are steel countertops with lab-like objects on them. He brings the testing kit which contains a test tube and a little object that looks like a small pipe cleaner. It’s made of steel and has a small brush at the end of the stick. I’m asked to tilt my head slightly backwards and he slowly sticks that horrifying object into my nose. It hurts so bad that I jolt and he drags it out. Ouch! Are you done, I ask. No, I didn’t get in quite far enough, he answers. Oh no. This really hurts. I tilt my head backwards once again and he goes in the other nostril. And he just continues. Deeper and deeper. Until he reaches what feels like the place where the nostril connects to the mouth. There he stops, turns the object around and takes it out. Finally. My nose runs, and it hurts in both nostrils. I take a tissue and blow it out. This really wasn’t very pleasant at all but it is done now. I walk back to my car, and I can feel that that object has been in my nose for at least an hour afterwards.

Mark:

Damn. I’ve just realised I really really want Maja to come. What prompted this? She takes the corona test today and if it comes out positive, no trip. OK. I hear you, and I’m telling myself the same thing: This is all purely about helping someone out and offering a friend a safe space in a difficult time. But the test thing and the prospect of a positive result and a consequent cancellation has suddenly made me feel very different about the situation. I really really want this to happen much more than I thought I did. I have no idea what to make of that. And results won’t be known until sometime Thursday. Of course a negative result is totally expected but you really just never know. It doesn’t help when Maja writes things like, ‘I don’t think I have corona.’ That’s like saying I’m sure I did, in an attempt to persuade someone you really did do that important thing. But I know she has already had corona so it won’t come back again will it? These are the kinds of things that are swirling in my mind all the time right now. I’m sure she’s thinking the same.

We also start checking official travel guidance and the like and Maja comes up with the line that Sweden is advising against travel to the UK right now. Oh dear. The elements really are quite against this.

Me and Sarah manage a rehearsal today, and we really make good progress on putting together our little show. It looks like it will be something of a five song medley with me coming in and out on bass with backing tracks used for one of the songs, and also a little a capella going on. There’s a nice little moment she’s given me where I take a solo in between one of the pieces. When I finish my solo today she loves it so much that she says, ‘That is no interlude. We’re starting the whole thing with that.’ Wow. 

It’s a seriously fun project to be working on and great to have a real musical focus especially now while my focus is being pulled all over the place, but mainly in the direction of Sweden. The goal for rehearsal right now is to have a tight 15 minute show to take out on this London road when it finally reopens for business. We’re also planning to record it for Sarah to send off to some of her contacts. Apparently she can get some funding that way if it all works out. I have no idea what funding means and I’m not asking, but Sarah’s contacts go deep into the A list of society and entertainment so whatever she shakes out of this could be quite interesting. Today we manage a full run through of what it could look like which is really cool. Still quite rough in parts, but we have something that feels like one complete piece. On Thursday we’re going to tighten up a few more details and then start trying to get this thing recorded.

It also helps take my mind off how slowly the minutes have been ticking by since Friday. This isn’t at all being helped by waiting for the results of the corona test. Thursday feels a hell of a long time away right now.

Well, it almost takes my mind off things. When we come to a close and settle down for our post rehearsal hang, Sarah says that as well as things have gone today, she can’t help notice that I seem a little bit distracted and maybe a touch hyper. She says she can see a light in my eyes shining even brighter than usual. This is unfortunate because I’m not supposed to be feeling anything, let alone showing it. I decide to open up, although it feels really strange to be actually articulating things. OK, I say. There is a girl thing going on. ‘I knew it,’ she half shrieks. ‘No no no. It’s not like that,’ I’m very quick to point out. I tell her about the helping out thing and the Maja coming thing, and the online chats and how they’ve led her to confide in me, which has led me to offer a way out, which has led us to getting really deep into, well, just about everything really. And feelings come out of that and I have no idea what to do with them. I don’t know if she feels the same way and I don’t know if I really feel anything anyway. And even if I do, I really don’t want to. I tell her that this is not an excited boy is going to meet girl thing. This is a serious situation that I’m supposed to be helping out in, not getting all, you know. Sarah just looks all coy and gigglish. Excited even. But I can think of few less appropriate words or emotions right now than excited. I just want to be calm about all this, welcome Maja in and hope that whatever I think I’m feeling just dies down. There really is no place for it here.

Sarah suggests bringing her along to the next rehearsal and maybe even letting her jam with us, possibly even becoming a part of what we’re doing. I drop cold water all over that idea saying, ‘For a start, her playing is just nowhere up to any kind of level ready for us.’ With that Sarah seems to let go of the thought, but is still keen for me to bring her to rehearsal for a hang out. Me and Sarah are clearly in social mode now so I check my phone for a few messages that I saw come in during rehearsal, and yep, there are one or two from Maja. I tell her we’ve just finished, and she says a hi to Sarah which Sarah just absolutely loves, saying she now feels connected to the story. Whatever that could mean. Sarah, there’s no story. I’m meeting this girl at the airport in a few days. We may hug, we may not. Then she’s going to come to my house and have a chill and a safe space and I’m going to carry on with my things while doing some shopping for her and maybe listen to and share a few thoughts. That’s it. There is no story.

Later when I get to message/chat to Maja a little more, she says she’s thrilled at the idea of coming along to a rehearsal or two and having an opportunity to listen and see how the pros do it. Yeah, that will be kinda cool. I really have a thing about people not directly involved being at rehearsals. If it’s ever in my control this is something I just do not allow. But I get the feeling Maja will be just fine and if Sarah’s cool with having her around then so am I.

Day minus one

Thursday February 18

Maja:

I’m excited about leaving tomorrow. But my body is filled with a myriad of emotions and self doubt. Am I doing the right thing? I am going to miss everything I have here, and it also feels absolutely horrible that I know that I need to leave my puppy Tommy as well. Pets are really hard. I’ve bonded so strongly with him, he even sleeps with his head on my upper arm, using it as a pillow. I used to toss and turn quite a lot before I got a dog, but now every time I need to move during the night, I wake up and make sure I’m not crushing him or disturbing his sleep. It’s a beautiful bond we have, and I never want to leave his side. Never. Ever. He is still tiny. And he is so innocent. He has never done anything wrong and he has no idea of what is about to happen. That the only person he trusts in the world has to leave him. I know that Harry and my mum are going to take great care of him while I’m gone, but I’m his world. He doesn’t really know anything or anyone else. He is only five months old.

It breaks my heart. I love him so much. 

Mark:

Today seems to stretch out into an eternity. One more day in what has been one of the longest weeks of my life and, I’m beginning to suspect, the actual longest of Maja’s. It feels like every day since the 11th has been a constant run of battles, justifications and fears of everything becoming derailed at any moment for any number of reasons. 

Maja’s says she would like to walk a little when she gets to London. The Corona thing means self isolation for ten days meaning she will have to stay in the house during that time, but transport from the airport is, by definition, allowed. That includes having to be among people in enclosed spaces. Surely it would be better to walk some of the way. Makes sense to me. But her reasoning is more the fact that once she’s arrived at the house she won’t be able to see London at all for 10 days and I’m only just learning now that, as good as her English is, she’s never been to an actual English speaking country. So this will be her first time in London and she won’t be able to see any of it for the first 10 days. Unless she goes for at least something of a walk before getting to the house. I’ve also discovered in the past week that she knows nothing of London. Nothing. Never even heard of Leicester Square. Oxford Street and Hyde Park could be little quiet backwaters for all she cares. And Big Ben? If I told her that was the name of the guy on top of the big column in Trafalgar Square, well she’d believe me. She’s heard of all the places I’ve written about in the Diaries. The Blues Kitchen, Aint Nothin But, and various other venues and such. But mainstream tourist places? Not a notion. So we’ll start from the beginning then. I’d already decided it would be a good idea to get the London shuttle bus from Heathrow to Victoria rather than the tube so that we spend more time above ground and she can get to see London that way at least before disappearing indoors for 10 days. I want to give her the best view of London possible when she arrives so I decide I should go and check out the route from Victoria to somewhere near our place. I can kinda see it on a route map but I really want to see for myself. I also want to know exactly where we’ll have to go to catch the next bus after getting off the shuttle bus. So I take a trip to Victoria, find the drop off point for the shuttle bus and then try to find the bus stop to bring us home. It’s a lot harder than I thought and nowhere near the coach station so I already feel glad that I’ve taken the time to come and see the actual view from the ground. So yep, I’ve found the right bus stop and now I’m going to ride that bus all the way home to see how much through the sights it actually goes. It doesn’t disappoint as it winds its way all through central London before taking me somewhere close to Kentish Town. I could take it a lot closer but I’m mindful of Maja’s request to have a bit of a walk so I get off at a stop I consider to be a reasonable distance away for a 10 minute walk through north west London suburbia, emerging at the far end of Kentish Town. From there it’s a full look at what will be her local high street and a straight shoot home. Which is where I find myself right now after completing all this.

When I arrive, Maja’s there, on the computer, telling me she’s just putting the finishing touches to her packing and asking if I’m ready for her my end. I am. ‘Great, it’s really happening,’ she says. Yep. She asks if I’m going to be nervous about this first meeting but I don’t think so. She says she is, but in an excited way. That’s about natural. We look at buses and conclude she’ll be leaving the apartment a little after 10 tomorrow morning. She goes on to talk about the wonderful day she has planned for tomorrow. The books she’ll read, the music she’ll listen to, the casual, meandering journey now the 10am leaving time has been decided on. And of course whatever is waiting at the other end, mostly the fact that she’ll be in London and far from this situation she’s been wanting to get away from for so long. The time is very much almost here. She still wants to pass a little more time tonight. Hell, we both do. So we get off chat and I go out into the street for a bit of a talk on the phone where we don’t really cover much more than what we’ve already been talking about but it’s cool to hang like this, although in not more than a few daylight hours we won’t be needing the phone anymore. We don’t sign off with a goodbye. Instead, it’s what feels like a surreal, ‘See you tomorrow.’ 

London, day one

Saturday February 20

Mark:

We barely move from the room today. Maja’s at the very beginning of a journey which is all about recovery. I know that she’s felt tense and almost emotionally hunted for a long time. She’s now out of that situation but the effects and feelings run deep and do not disappear just like that. But she says that last night was the best night’s sleep she’s had since she can remember. Actually the first time since she can remember that she slept all the way through the night. A notable event in itself. She was just restful and relaxed, for the first time since she can remember. With that she has a wake up call of just how much she needed to get out of her situation in Sweden. So yes. Right now is about rest with absolutely no obligations to do anything. For a full ten days. In fact, she’s essentially legally obliged to do practically nothing for the next ten days anyway, or at least not to go anywhere. It’s also about processing. Lots and lots of processing. I spend the whole day listening as Maja talks about what she’s been through over the past year or so. As she talks, it’s clear that she’s doing so to fathom things out for herself as much as engaging me in her thoughts. There are so many branches and avenues down which we can drive and I gently nudge her into a few of them, leading us to explore, in detail, quite a few smaller parts of the big picture. Through all this I basically just try to put pieces together and make sense of it all. It helps that we’ve spoken so much on the phone over the past week and I’ve at least got a handle on some of it, especially the more up to date stuff which I’ve lived or heard about more or less in real time.

We also touch on a few tiny details of our phone calls in the past week, including some of the little hints we dropped to each other which led to bigger hints, which have all led to where we are now.

In between, Maja gets to meet Cris, the leader and vocalist in Wild Child, the Italian heavy metal band I play and travel with, and Sam. The guys are massively friendly and welcoming to her, and when they talk I do my best to stay firmly on the sidelines and let their own conversations develop. Basically, I want these interactions to be organic, with no input from me, and they are indeed organic as Maja charms them with her enthusiasm of being in a whole new environment with new people to hang out with.

These little interludes aside, the two of us talk so much that we totally forget about eating until it hits something like 8pm and we realise we’ve made no plans. The last thing Maja ate was breakfast yesterday morning. I’m not that much different, although I did manage to grab a small thing at the airport once I realised the security holdup was happening. She asks if it’s possible to get takeout sushi at this time in London. Yes it is. But I have to leave now to get to Camden before the place closes. One mad dash later and we have something resembling dinner and the first thing Maja has eaten in almost 36 hours.

Maja:

I wake up alone in the small bed, looking around myself in dislocated confusion. Where am I? It’s hard to remember just what happened last night. I turn around and look at the room, it’s tiny. The walls are white and have specks of dirt on them, the ceiling is white and somewhat patterned, like someone’s been painting it with a drippy paint that wouldn’t quite stick on. There’s a closet that’s small, but proved to fit all my clothes without any problems. By my feet I find a little shelf, over the bed next to the window. Under the bed there’s three drawers. I rest my eyes a little more, squeezing my face down in the pillows, looking up again. Yeah. The room is the same. It’s not my room in Stockholm. This is a minimal room, that would barely be enough for a child’s room. But. It’s mine. The bed feels wonderful, it’s soft. And from it I can see out of the window. Outside there’s a beautiful tree, and it’s in full bloom right now. I feel exhausted, but also rested in a strange way. I’ve slept through the night for the first time in a long time, which is a noticeable event in itself. The room is small, but I don’t care; I’m so happy that I’m here.

I search for my toiletries, and try out the shower. It’s a nice shower, shared with all the other tenants, of course, but it even has a bathtub and I’m pleased to see that it is kept clean. Showered and dressed I go down to the kitchen, where I meet Mark.

Goodmorning, we say as we sheepishly look at each other, and soon afterwards we go back to my room to get to know each other a little bit better. 

In the evening, I ask Mark for sushi, and when he gets back with it I’m very careful eating only a little bit of it.

London, day three

Monday February 22

Last night we didn’t speak much about what happened, but today we get into it, especially now I’ve seen first hand how bad things have physically gotten for Maja. I’d been told of course, but I guess I have to admit that until last night when I saw it for myself, I really didn’t understand how bad it all really was. I still don’t fully, until she reluctantly admits why what happened last night happened. The way I understand it is that she was caught in a double fix of not wanting to hurt my feelings and of genuinely wanting to try everything. For the past few weeks, along with insomnia, she’s barely been able to eat anything above survival rate, often going days or maybe even weeks of eating below the recommended calorie intake, and almost forcing herself at that. I also feel guilty at having introduced such fat-rich foods to her so soon, but I really had no concept at all of how much those kinds of foods could have affected her. That they could have caused such dramatic events was inconceivable to me. And I know what inconceivable means.

The one time we eat today, again quite late on, all we have is a super bland veggie soup – vegetables and water. Not even any salt. And some simply and very lightly fried white fish, after which Maja has another very tired reaction. It is this that triggers her to finally admit to the problems she has with eating, and I realise that I have to tone it down even more when cooking for her. No seasoning of any kind, and absolutely no oil. I really do have to treat her as though she’s properly sick with a body incapable of digesting anything beyond the simple. In that, this is like reintroducing someone to food who has been starved of it for so long for whatever reason. Within that, I’ve decided to eat only what Maja eats. It isn’t a wonderful diet but it really helps with the solidarity of the situation.

Talking about all this, today we focus on what stress has done to Maja’s body and general habits and the picture painted really isn’t pretty. We also decide that what she has isn’t an eating disorder. It’s more like the inability to be able to eat, which is quite different. And as she’s becoming more relaxed here, she is actually starting to want to eat and is even enjoying it a little, as much as one can enjoy bland boiled veggies and white fish. Although I have to say, I did do it quite well.

Maja:

I need to say, I love my family. I love my husband. With my whole heart. A lot of things have happened that have led me to where I am today. But this is one thing I am absolutely adamant on making clear. I can’t be angry at you, or blame you. I would never wish anything bad of any of you. I miss you. I love you so much it hurts my whole being not being with you. Every day. Always. I love you. 

I’m used to being seen as this strong woman that can do anything and never has any real issues, which makes talking about the issues I have really hard. I’m bad at talking about it. I am even bad at admitting any issues to myself. I’m fine. Nothing’s on my mind. Everything is wonderful. I am not vulnerable. I am strong. I am smart. I can handle myself. I can do anything.

Yeah, you get it, I’m that kind of person. 

This can sometimes lead to loneliness and isolation, even in normal times. Add to that, Covid, which has meant it even became frowned upon to meet friends and family. Meetings become sparse and, since I’m usually the one instigating meetings, they become practically non-existent. But I am not good alone, I need people around me to function. I get it if you don’t understand I can be both at once, but I can. I feel alone even when I’m with people but I am very sociable and need to have people around me. 

I’ve often felt alone and I have had a hard time to feel properly understood. So often I only tell maybe one person how I feel, or I don’t tell anyone. It’s hard enough to admit to myself if I have any issues, and if I tell someone and they don’t understand me or take it lightly, I find it so incredibly hurtful that I might not want to speak about it again. 

I always try to be openhearted and explain to people close to me what is going on, I would never purposefully hide my intentions. I just don’t have it in me to deceive anyone. Mark describes me as purehearted to such a level that I can’t even understand how people can have bad intentions. How people can want to hurt people. I can’t help but agree, I don’t understand how people would like to do that. I know some people do. I just would never want to hurt anyone. Ever.

I’m very selective about who I trust enough to talk about any issues, and I rarely even mention anything to anyone. Much easier on everyone. So the problem becomes when I can’t solve the issue by myself. That’s why I’ve been very stressed for a long time now. I’ve been very alone in a situation that grew worse, and I’ve not felt understood in why I’ve taken the decisions I’ve had to take by those I’ve confided in. Which makes me feel taken lightly in a bad situation, leading to further stress and isolation from the world around me. 

I hope that explanation of my personality makes it a little easier for you to understand why the story has come to where it is today.

I’ve been having a hard time recently, and I have had a hard time getting that understood. This has led to me feeling very stressed and I seem to be one of those people that have a problem eating if I get too stressed. It’s like I just can’t eat at all. Usually I am on the other side of the spectrum, alway having to control myself so I don’t eat too much and make sure I eat healthily. So during this period I’ve lost weight a little bit quicker than might have been advisable. I’ve stayed mindful that this is a problem, trying to not completely skip eating and I’ve drunk a lot of water to help me stay alert. A little habit I used to have from years back, is to take a bath when I’m cold, to heat up. I used to do this often, especially when trying one diet after the other. A lot of diets can leave you feeling really cold, so this time when I’ve had these problems eating I’ve taken a lot of baths to heat myself up.

Today I tell Mark about how it got to this place and that I want to return to ordinary eating habits as quickly as possible. He got really worried from what happened last night and I want to calm him down regarding that. I tell him about the stress and how that has made me unable to eat. And that this stress has been there for quite a long time by now, so my body needs to gently get back to normal eating habits. 

Mark listens. Actively. It feels nice to feel heard. I’m not sure how much he understands, but he is starting to puzzle together an image of where I’m coming from. We talk for hours and hours. Of how I feel both mentally and physically. A lot of the subjects I bring up seem to be outside of his normal experiences but he is a great speaking companion. It’s great that he actively listens and tries not to judge. 

Mark:

After dinner I cry in front of Maja for the first time. I have a chunk of my tongue missing. It got ripped off in a hospital accident when I was four years old and very much conscious. I’ve told the story many times, but have only cried once while telling it, which was during a counselling session when I was deep into my fibromyalgia years. Today I cry not for myself but for thoughts my mother and the ordeal she suffered as a result of my own trauma. She was only in her early to mid twenties at the time and what she saw would have mentally scarred the most battle hardened of people.

I was five years old, maybe four. For the purposes of this, I’ve decided I was four. I was in hospital for what was something of an experimental operation on a cleft palate which came as part of the deal of having a hare lip. This cleft is essentially a hole in the roof of the mouth, near the front. The idea to close it was to open up the skin up there, do the same to the end of my tongue, and then surgically attach the two together. The idea was that the two would become anatomically fused, then in a second operation, the tongue could be cut away, leaving the new skin behind, thus closing the hole. I was five, maybe four.

I naturally couldn’t talk much after this operation. There was some debate of me having a kind of signalling device for when I wanted attention. My mum suggested a whistle. I suggested a trumpet. We never got that far.

Although it was an NHS operation, I had a private room. I often did when I had operations at Booth Hall hospital where I was very well known by most of the staff, at least on this particular ward. My physical progress since birth had been so good that there were pictures of me on the wall in the main corridor to show it. This was among pictures of many of the other young patients unfortunate enough to have to frequent a place such as this. My surgeon was the legendary John Lendrum, known to me even deep into adult life, only as Mr Lendrum. His work in the treatment of hare lips and cleft palates was revolutionary and experimental and I believe he spent some time working in developing countries in this very field. I never saw him again once my time in his care was over, which was probably around the early teenage years, and he died in 2015 leaving behind a considerable legacy.

I think this is an excellent opportunity to post up my own selected excerpts of this tribute to him which I found on the website livesonline.rcseng.uk

He was appointed as a consultant plastic surgeon to the North West Region, at three widely separated hospitals – Booth Hall Children’s Hospital, Withington Hospital and Rochdale. It was a good thing that he enjoyed driving, usually fast, in coloured sports cars, with the top down. The stories of his car parking activities in the various hospitals were legendary. My mum said that this sounded exactly like the man she remembered. 

J L was a skilled surgeon. He taught all the time and enjoyed watching young surgeons develop under his guidance and inspiration. He hated management interference with his ability to provide the best possible service for his patients. He was not a committee man and never sought high office in any association, but was elected to the council of BAPS in 1984 and did much useful work chairing the manpower planning and development committee, shaping the future of plastic surgery. John was elected an honorary member of BAPS in 1995. He was an honorary associate of the University of Manchester.

John enjoyed painting and retirement enabled him to paint more. He described himself as an artist with a 35-year interruption for a surgical career! He was a member of the Medical Artists’ Association.

John was a colourful individual; he was loyal and generous, took great care of his patients and staff, but could be rebellious and outrageously incorrect! 

I have no idea what that last statement means, but I’m sure you get the picture. From what I take away from this, basically a man who knew what he was doing, cared deeply about it and what it meant to the people under his care – one of which was of course me – and had absolutely no time for people who had no idea what they were talking about interfering in any of his business in any way.

I was sitting watching TV – Lassie since you’re asking – when a nurse came in on her own. I was five, maybe four.

I didn’t know exactly what she wanted, but she was holding a syringe with a scary looking needle attached. I’d had all kinds of injections and needles since birth so the sight of a needle in the hands of an adult who was about to puncture me with it was already routine. It  held absolutely no fear for me. But this lady was alone and that did. She didn’t even say anything to me, just came towards me as though I was an object she could just stick things in. I wasn’t having that and moved away from her. She wasn’t having that and moved closer to me, at speed. I moved away from her again. She wasn’t having that and came again until the two of us were walking, then running round in circles around the room. Yes, a grown adult, in some petty state of thwarted authoritarian petulance by now at having been disobeyed by a small child, was chasing said small child around a hospital ward brandishing a needle. I started to say no, no, no. Then more. I was five, maybe four.

I screamed.

Yep. Everything just came apart.

I have no memory of that. I remember watching the TV, I remember her coming in, I remember the running round in circles bit. Between that and my mum and her mum entering the room – walking or running I have no idea – I have nothing. For what happened in between I have to rely on the memory of my mother, who wouldn’t even talk of this to me until almost 30 years later, such was the trauma it inflicted upon her. My grandmother never spoke to me of it and I can’t believe it’s a topic I would never have raised with her. What they encountered was me screaming, a bemused nurse, and blood. Horror movie blood. All in my mouth, all down my chin, and all over my white hospital gown and all onto the floor. Enough to slip in. I know that I was quickly sedated, then anaesthetised and operated on again to tidy up this mess. Within that, I lost the end of my tongue and the roof of my mouth was significantly collapsed and similarly scarred. The hold that they were trying to patch up was worse than it had been when it started, although over the years it has mostly closed, just by dint of my growing, so they could have just waited for that to happen and spared us all the – quite literal – pain, not to mention the, again quite literal, sweat blood and tears.

The nurse, I have no idea what happened to her and don’t want to speculate. The operation was abandoned as far as I know and, due to my own selective amnesia of the episode, I was spared the trauma that affected those two female generations. So I’ve always been able to tell the story with a bit of a jokey demeanour. But today I tell Maja of it from the point of view of my mother. It’s too much to think of and I’m barely through it when the tears come. Another little thing that brings us that much closer together.

Maja:

After getting back after dinner, Mark approaches me with what I think of his harelip. I tell him that I don’t really think that much of it. He continues with asking me, you must think something of it. No, not really. I mean, I can see that your upper lip is mainly scar tissue, and it feels a bit strange kissing you. It’s not like kissing anyone I’ve ever kissed before. But I’m OK with that. Mark is really happy that I seem to be so unbothered by it. I mean it was a big shock when I first kissed him, it just felt a bit off. It’s stubblier than usual. Yes, that’s a word now. Since there’s not much of the pink lip tissue, and the stubble starts just where the lip ends, the stubble kind of cuts into my lips when he needs a shave.  And also, his tongue is significantly shorter than normal, which kind of threw me off balance the first time, before I knew what had happened. 

When I’ve thought about this, I’ve seen and noticed the scar tissue, but things like that are deeply personal, so I haven’t been wanting to pry. I decided that I’m going to wait until he wants to tell me the story and that seems to be now. So he talks. And talks. And I get the opportunity to ask questions.

To me this story is worse than I could ever have imagined. So I just listen, and I feel with him, and hug him tightly as he cries. He cries, violently. For the loss of part of his tongue. For the hospital abuse that left him forever mutilated. For the trauma inflicted upon his mother and family seeing everything happening to him as they arrived in the immediate aftermath. For the time and time again of broken promises of surgically fixing the face. For the hope those promises gave, that continued being crushed. Time and time again.

To describe how it looks, his upper lip is almost nonexistent. The lower lip goes outward as a usual lip does, but the upper lip doesn’t have much of that soft pink lip tissue. There is a ton of scar tissue that seems to be connecting the lip tissue with the nose. And that tissue is so tight he has almost no movement there. And the nose is completely surgically made as well, but that story is for another day. 

Mark:

Let’s make this the other day. I was born without a nose. How did I smell? Terrible. Bum bum. Somehow, I have no idea how, it was constructed in the first days and weeks of my life. I think. Apparently it’s ridiculously hard. Or at least Maja says it is. She thinks it’s really funny. 

Maja:

My nose is soft and moves all over the place, I can make the tip touch my cheek, but Marks. Come on. It doesn’t move. At all. Hard as a stone. And quite big. Stone nose. Iron nose. 

His tongue looks like someone has chopped off maybe an inch or so and tried to sew it back together, so the tip of the tongue is missing. The whole thing is short and still has visible signs of where the stitches were. Honestly, if you just look at him, you won’t notice much of what I’ve been talking about, but I am still impressed by how well he manages to do everything, especially with respect to the many missing teeth, most of them being the upper ones.

Mark:

About those missing teeth. It’s not all gaps and stuff, like a boxer’s missing teeth, or the teeth of someone who’s really badly neglected them. They do all meet in the middle. It’s just that there are certain teeth most people have that I just don’t. Like the two little bunny teeth at the top in the middle. You see, I have no gum there. I just don’t. I know. I’m getting more attractive by the second.

Maja:

Just saying, I find Mark quite handsome. We’ve been discussing some of the drawbacks for a while now, so I thought it ought to be said.

I guess he has thought of the horrific tongue incident many times, but today he, for the first time in a long while, re-lives it once more. I feel honoured and happy that he wants to share his stories with me. It’s also nice to not be the only one that is talking.

London, day five

Wednesday February 24

Maja:

So I’m married, and that fact makes everything so much harder. When I first got kissed on the porch, the first thought that flew through my mind was, I’m not going to be able to go back. And do I really want to go back to what I have over there? I’ve tried to ignore the fact, and I’m not really ready to take any decision, but I hate even the thought of me cheating. That’s not who I am. Period. So what in the world am I doing? I’m leaving something behind. A marriage. That’s what I have to give up to continue on this path, and I’m not fond of that. It makes me really sad. The only thing I wanted in the beginning was to be myself and make music. And that is leading all the way to this, slowly, slowly but in the end, that’s where all the “you can’t do this” leads to. 

But I can’t think too much about this today. I just can’t handle analysing everything that happened. I just know that I’m falling in love. I want to be with Mark, and I really enjoy talking to him, being with him. Right now, that’s everything I want. I just want to be here. Right here, right now. Is that really that bad?

We’re definitely more than friends now, right?

Mark:

We have no choice. We have to acknowledge that we’re in some kind of relationship. Or that we have something. We have no idea what, but there is definitely a something here. But yes, Maja is married and very much just on a break of which she’s vaguely said would be in the region of two months. When I suggest that she can just go back when she’s ready, if that’s what she ultimately decides to do, she says that with all that’s gone on between us just in these past five days, she can’t go back now. So where does that leave anything?

It might seem like there’s been a whole lot of serious analytical chat going on and that would be right. But in between, sometime right in between, there’s been a whole lot of laughter. I’ve laughed with Maja more and harder than I’ve ever laughed with anyone. And by now we’re also starting to realise that we react the same way to a lot of situations. Some of that Maja knows from reading certain Diary episodes. But also, in all kinds of situations we’ve spoken about and been through over the past six weeks or so, professional and very personal. And of course we’re learning a lot about each other within these four walls and under this ceiling. The biggest of these we’re learning about is the many parallels we have in career trajectories and the breakdowns we both had.

I was a journalist and rose very quickly – once I finally made it in. Journalism is ridiculously hard to break into, to the point that it starts to actually seem impossible. And indeed, most people do give up. I didn’t, although I didn’t get my first break until I had just turned 23. But within a year I had doubled my starting salary, and before I turned 25 I was a magazine editor and foreign correspondent. I carried on for quite a few more years, continuing to progress and loving it loving it loving it. Then, as I approached 30, I realised I was declining physically and mentally on the job until I just simply couldn’t function anymore. A low point came when I was called into a management meeting – really. Me, two editors and an executive – and told in a diplomatic roundabout way that I was slacking and letting myself and the team down. What I kinda remember them actually saying was that if I had some idea of what would work best for me and if readers really liked it, then they would pay me more. The other side of that coin was the hint that what I was currently doing wasn’t worth what they were paying me. I think this could be called a professional intervention. A few weeks later, I was done and out of the media game.

Maja:

It’s interesting to get to know a little bit more about the Mark from before his diaries, and he shares many stories which I listen to intensely. I can’t help but discover a lot of similarities between our professional lives. What’s extremely telling is that we both entered very highly advanced fields, worked and thrived there for years until we ran face first deep into the wall. We both know how it feels to have our head a foot length deep into the wall, not knowing that it was there, and then the inevitable crash that comes afterwards. You don’t realise when you’re well past the point of no return. At least we never did. You go forward, doing everything you used to do, perhaps adding a lot of training to take care of yourself because you notice that you need something. But apart from that, completely oblivious of the damage your stressed out lifestyle is inflicting you. 

Mark:

Oh yes. The training thing. When I first realised I was deep tired, I was already training twice a week with a semi professional rugby team, plus playing in their third team. But my response to being tired? Not cut back on training. No. It was just obvious to me that I was tired because I wasn’t fit enough. So the response – more training. Maja laughs quite bitterly when I mention this.

Maja:

I never knew until it was too late. Neither did he. I continued to work, train, do band rehearsals and meet friends, because that’s what you’re supposed to do. I planned every minute of my time, trained 11 hours a week, band rehearsal maybe 7 to 10 hours a week and I was home after 10 pm almost every day and out around 7 am. All the time. I was emotionally available to anyone needing to talk, and took good care about everything. On top of all this I always did my absolute best at work, and had a top salary for my age, with huge responsibilities and a good reputation.

It’s special to talk about this with someone that experienced the same things, albeit in a slightly different way. For him this was years ago, and he found his way forward through yoga and music. He never returned to journalism. For me, this is right here and right now.

I’m still stumbling. 

Mark:

I hear today that the big story in the Diaries that really resonated with Maja, and which confirmed her thought once and for all that we shared very similar wavelengths, was the day me and Paul rescued the young girl who was lost, desperate and on the verge of being homeless at Euston Station, one of the very last places in London you would want to be a young girl who is lost, desperate and on the verge of being homeless. As she read that, she realised that she would have acted the same way as I did pretty much from the beginning to the end of the episode. That is, I was initially cynical yet open minded, which gave way to acceptance, openness and help, and then I stayed with her with Paul until it was just me and her for the last hour or so until I finally saw on a train to the house of a relative of hers who I’d been in communication with since the first few minutes of the encounter.

Maja:

For me this story proved an important judgement of character. I actually have a similar story, helping an eight month pregnant lady asking people for help in a supermarket. I still think of her at times, wondering how she’s doing. I hope she’s well. I can’t remember the exact circumstances but she’d been at a house viewing, forgot her wallet somewhere so she couldn’t take the train home to another town, her phone ran out of battery and she was hungry. I was sceptical at first, but then realised her situation, we got into my car and drove home, and I gave her some leftovers from the night before, let her rest and charge her phone and gave her money for the train. She was immensely grateful, and I felt a little bit guilty for not believing her at once. Everyone she asked looked the other way. I was also so sceptical I was almost not helping her. I’m really glad I did though. So reading this story about Mark, really made me feel like he reacted in the same way as me. It felt honest, but not riskful. Wise in a way. This little story he posted ages ago, made me feel a little bit like this is a nice guy. Probably trustworthy.

Mark:

Since Maja arrived, we haven’t left the tiny room together for any sustained period of time. Most of it has been spent in there with just bathroom and shower breaks, punctuated only by trips to the kitchen for food. But even there, eating has been ridiculously sporadic and mostly still taken place in the bedroom. The weather hasn’t been great to be fair, but it’s sunny today and Maja really wants us both to go out and sit in the sun. So out we go and join Sam, who Maja joyously chats with. There have been one or two chats with Sam and Cris and when it’s been one on one with Maja and one of those guys, I’ve pretty much stayed out of it, allowing them to get to know each other without my input. I’ve spoken enough to all of them. It’s the same now as we lie back in the deckchairs and take in the February sun. This is something Maja is really having a wonderfully tough time to process. February sun. Back in Sweden they’re still up to their waists in snow and battling temperatures touching minus double figures. Now, here she is wearing sunglasses and the bare minimum of clothes, reclining in what she was jokingly referring to last week as tropical London. Well today it really is something of a dictionary definition of tropical as far as anyone in Sweden would be concerned. 

Cris joins us now and it’s clear that him and Sam have been starting to come to the same conclusions the two of us have been coming to, with Cris revelling in jokes about the lovebirds. At this, me and Maja just look at each other and laugh. The whole scene gives way to a really warm garden hang with us providing the tunes from Maja’s phone for an early summer soundtrack.

Maja:

It’s been nice hanging out with Sam and Cris a little bit as well. I like them both, they’re great. I don’t think Sam is out to be good friends, with him a feel more of a nice flatmate vibe. Which is very nice as well. I’m a bit more curious about Cris, who is the singer of one of the bands Mark plays with at times -The Wild Child. He is teasing us a little bit, calling us birdy birds. But he is rarely at home, and I look forward to getting to know him better at a later stage.

Mark:

Inspired by the music, when we’re left alone, Maja turns the conversation round to basses and suggests we start looking at what she could buy. For the first time, we’re looking at the same screen as Maja starts thinking about what her next bass could look like. Then she surprises me by asking, ‘What kind of bass would you like to play? I’m now thinking of buying two.’ Her reasoning is that if this is the case, she might as well buy at least one I’d really like to play. I’m good with just my Washburn to be fair, but I’m happy to give my input here and start to think about something I would also like to work with.

It takes a while, but we finally settle on a Lakland and a Sadowsky and both pretty much mid to top of the range. Of course we’ve not been able to try either out, but they look beautiful, very classy, and it goes without saying that the actual quality of them will be right up there with the best. Will they be nice to play? Impossible to say but I’m sure we’ll get used to whatever little differences we find. Maja hits the buy button with complete confidence. With names like these, you really can’t go wrong. Worst case, she reasons, if she doesn’t like one, she’ll at least like the other. Then I can make myself like the other one.

Maja: 

Before I was going to England, I played a lot of bass and was just starting to get serious with it, so I decided that I would buy one to have while I was here. I had kind of decided on a decent budget for this already. Since last autumn I’ve been eyeing the Fender professional II J bass. I played it in the music store, and it was just something else. So I thought that I could use the money for that bass to buy something in London instead and bring that one back with me later. 

So we start to look at music shops, and I realise that instead of buying one bass, I can afford two decent basses, so I could just buy one that Mark would like to play as well. Maybe. Looking around I find a Shadowsky and a Lakland that look really nice, so I decide to go for both. Since I can’t test them in the store because of covid, I could at least send one of them back if I’m unlucky. But they are great brands, so I’m sure it’ll be fine.

London, day seven

Friday February 26

Maja:

Why can’t things be simple? Just why can’t I just simply be able to do what I want? What we want? There’s too many whys here, and it just doesn’t add up. 

Mark:

Why isn’t it spelt whies? Sorry. Not helpful. Carry on Maja.

Maja:

I just can’t get what I want in a simple way. Why does it have to start off with an impossible list? Why do I have to navigate a way through the impossible, just to be where I want with who I want? Yes, I’m complaining a lot right now, but it really feels like this. I can’t even stay here in this miniscule room for long, because of Brexit. Why does it have to be so complicated? 

I’m feeling a tiny bit of whelm here.

So, what do I have to do? 

Get a divorce, sell my apartment in Sweden, fix a new home for my dog Tommy, get a job in London, or some remote job at least, get an apartment in London, get a visa to be able to be here because of the stupid cursed Brexit. All of this, and I don’t even know where to start with the first one. How should I even approach that? How should I even think about that? I mean, I love him so much still, but I can’t be with him now. How do you even get a divorce? How am I going to be able to say that to him? How am I going to be OK? I don’t know how I should handle this. 

I just don’t know. 

This is impossible.

Mark:

Very quickly we’re realising that we’re going to need a bigger boat. We really have to take a pragmatic approach to what’s going on here.

To start with that, we make a list of what we need to overcome. We quickly call this the Impossible List. It looks like this.

Divorce, which means she’s going to have to make the actual call to say she wants one, and then have it granted and administered.

Organising/selling the apartment in Sweden

Getting a job in London, or some remote working job

Getting an apartment London, and lockdown London at that

Visa to be able to stay in post Brexit Britain, which will probably be dependent on whatever job she’s able to get, and even then, it will be a huge ask.

Tommy – her dog. What will happen with him?

For my part, I have to deal with Jenn and how to break that, while still living here for the time being. Oh, mini reveal of what you probably already knew if you’d thought about it. Me and Jenn are still sharing a room. Yes I’m with Maja a lot, and in her room a lot, but the big downstairs room is still mine and Jenn’s. In any case, the three of us are all still living in the same house. Awkward? You said that. I couldn’t possibly comment.

Maja:

Yeah, come on. The whole Jenn situation is really not helpful right now either. How are you going to square this circle Mark? I mean, just how?

Mark:

If that’s going to change, I have to figure out how the hell I’m going to make enough to pay my share of an apartment in London, with deposit. And if and when the move does happen, I also have to do the right thing which means, on top of that, keeping up my share of rent payments on the room here for at least a reasonable amount of time whatever that means. 

In this area, and anywhere else this central really, property is truly expensive; in many parts of the country you could get a two bedroom apartment for the price of the double room in this house. A one bedroom apartment, which is what we’re looking for, costs around twice the price of the room I’m currently paying for.

On top of all this, I’m currently on furlough. From a bar job. And get a new job? That could pay what all the above would require? Here? In lockdown, almost totally furloughed London? Don’t think so. Which means we have to come up with an idea or ideas for how I could make more money to help fund the new reality and whatever comes next.

Combining our situations, pick any one of the above and you’re looking at an insurmountable problem. As an entire list, it’s impossible. Just impossible. There’s no other word for it. We are totally deluding ourselves if we think we’re ever going to get that lot ticked off and somehow sail into the sunset. But amazingly, we manage to solve all the problems almost instantly. We do this by refusing to think about them. Then we realise that, while this might feel nice, it really isn’t a solution that’s sustainable for any amount of time.

The first real biggie is the possibility of a divorce. It’s huge that the situation has even come to this, but it is very much acknowledged that this would have been on the cards even without me, or anyone else, on Maja’s horizon; even if, instead of coming here, she’d decided to go to a Caribbean island on her own to have her much needed break and to get her head around everything, she probably still would have come to the conclusion that the marriage was over and that she would need to move ahead with that. So no, I don’t feel responsible for that and no, I don’t believe that anything we have done or said has precipitated that. Nevertheless, it is something that will have to be addressed and something that will ultimately have to happen. Along with the divorce is the attached inevitability of her having to sell their apartment in Sweden and get all that stuff organised; of course, the mere fact an apartment exists means there are a lot of things in it. Where the hell do you start with that? From here?

And if Maja is to divorce and stay here, we need to think about what that means. First, it means getting out of this room and into a place of our own. But she still has another three days of quarantine anyway, and today. So four days. Basically, she’s only just over halfway through quarantine and is thinking of not just being able to go outside, but of moving from here totally. Which brings us onto the next problem of how the hell to get an apartment in London and how the hell to pay for it. And to do that, I really need to up my financial game, and how the hell am I going to do that? In Covid, lockdown London? As it is, right now I’m on furlough so I have some kind of income, but nowhere near what you would need to pay for half a whole apartment, plus deposit, plus keep up my moral obligations here for a little while. It’s just possible, with everywhere being closed anyway, that we could look for a place a little further out, and so a little cheaper than the zone two we’re currently in which is touching distance from central London and a place I totally love. But the fact would still remain that I would need to find a considerably better income than I’m pulling in now. How?

And even if we achieve all this, Maja still has to be able to stay in the UK to make any of it workable. Pre Brexit that would have been no big deal. She’s European, UK was in the EU, not even a discussion. Live and work here, just like I went to Madrid to live and work all that time ago. Fully legally, with Spanish papers organised and everything. Almost did the same in Hamburg with Drunken Monkees; they even have a welcome centre there with all the bureaucratic offices under the same roof. Imagine. But all that’s changed now. All Maja has, and all she can have, is a travel visa which is valid for six months. Which means she can stay for at least that long. But she can’t work. How the hell are we going to square that circle? And all the other circles? All we have right now is a very very bad game of Tetris where nothing fits but it’s all coming down anyway.

But onto immediate issues, I have to tell Jenn where me and Maja are right now. She’s out when the time comes for this, so I arrange to meet her nearby when she’s on her way back. As soon as I make the phone call she knows something bad is coming and bitterly thanks me for ruining her day which she says was already a struggle because she’s been worried about what’s been going on here. Yes, we’re just friends, but friends who have lived together and supported each other for a long time and she can see that we are now nudging at the end of an era. We meet in the empty beer garden in The Vine across the road from the house. I don’t want to drag anything out so I just say it as soon as I can. ‘Me and Maja said the three words last night.’ I would like to say Jenn takes it well. She really doesn’t. But she does say this has come as no surprise to her as she’s been well aware of how we’ve been since Maja arrived. Bottom line, she asks to be given a few days to a week to process this new reality and then to maybe come round to accepting the situation. In that time, she says, I shouldn’t be surprised if she doesn’t speak to either of us. Fair enough. 

Above I mentioned the fact that I have a bar job which I’m currently being paid for not doing. That reminded me that a certain amount of context had been missing from The Diaries, at least for people not familiar with Mark’s Diaries, which is my thing before me and Maja ended our respective diaries and started this thing. 

Practically my whole life in London, since I moved here from Madrid in October 2014, has revolved around bars, with my income pretty evenly split between payments from gigs in them and earnings from working in them. Governmental stay at home advice saw bars, among other businesses, being forced to close. With that, wages, or at least a good part of them, continued through furlough payments based, in my bar’s case, on average earnings over a given period before furlough began. Which has meant that I’ve been able to keep the wheels turning quite OK. It also meant that I was totally available for all Skype calls with Maja when we first started communicating with the whole website/bass mentor trade off thing, and then it meant I was able to be available for phone calls anytime day or night when the wheels of her life started wobbling. And it means I’m 100 per cent around now as well as she settles into the house and into London. So yes, Covid and it’s societal effects have been terrible. But for me and Maja, it’s really kind of worked in our favour. You really could say we are children of Covid. Or at the very least, if it hadn’t happened, for want of a better expression, we wouldn’t have even made it to first base. I wouldn’t have even been able to mentor her, or receive her website help, to the extent that I did, which, as you know, is how we really started communicating in the first place.

Maja:

Yes. If it hadn’t been for Covid, a lot of things that happened to me just wouldn’t have happened. It might even have been a trigger for why my marriage started to break down as well. And I certainly would never have picked up an instrument if it wasn’t for Covid. So then I would never have started a band, never joined SBL, never found Mark’s diaries, never started my own diaries, never contacted Mark. And I would probably live my whole life never even wanting to go to London, nevermind live there. I mean, why would I ever want to go there? I have my job, I work as a cloud/computer engineer, my training is way too many hours a week – I train aikido. If I was to do something crazy and new it would probably be going to an Aikido training camp in Japan for a year or so. But that never happened.

When the world came crashing down around me, so did everything that I knew.

London, days 10 and 11

Day 10

Monday March 1

Mark:

On the phone to the shop and very little resistance is met. They will send a van to pick up the basses and, once they’re happy we’ve not damaged them in any way, a full refund will be issued. OK. Fair enough.

We ‘celebrate’ Maja’s last night of quarantine and anticipate tomorrow’s London odyssey by ordering in pizza and going for what has become a real treat. Takeout cocktail bags from Ladies And Gents, the underground toilet cocktail bar in Ktown. Basically, they give you six cocktail measures in a large sealed plastic bag, and in another bag, you have the little bits of dried, seasoned fruit they would put in them. Then at home you put them together yourself. This is all a perfect accompaniment for our second attempt at watching any kind of TV – Maja’s favourite – Doctor Who. We get 20 minutes in and give up. It seems TV really doesn’t work for us.

Maja:

I’ve really, really looked forward to watching Doctor Who, because I haven’t been able to watch the latest seasons in Sweden. No streaming service owns the rights to it in Sweden right now. So when it comes to things I want to watch here, Doctor Who is my highest priority. But we just can’t seem to focus. 

Come on Mark. You’re just too much fun to be with. How are we ever going to get anything done?

Day 11

Tuesday March 2

Maja:

What a beautiful day. At least I think so, I haven’t really been able to compare the days to anything, being in self isolation since arrival. I wake up energetic and positive, sending a text to Mark, “Good morning, I’m up now!”. He is already awake waiting on me. Today is the day we’ve been looking forward to, it’s the day of the non-quarantine life starting! I’m quick about showering and getting dressed, since I really wish to get out as soon as I possibly can. And I am going to experience London today.

Shoes are located, and they almost look dusty from not having been used in ages. Or as dusty objects untouched for 10 days get. 

  • Mark, I’m ready to go now!
  • How do you feel, for your first London walk?
  • It’s amazing. Come on, let’s go now!!!

I got my key a couple of days ago, and now for the first time I walk up the staircase and put the key in the keyhole and open up the door to lockdown London. My London. My mood rises even higher as I step out the door, and take a deep breath of the outside air. It tastes like freedom. I grab Mark by the hand, use my other arm to point in a vague direction of the town.

  • Today, I want to go in that direction.
  • Sure, today, you lead the way.

I’ve never been in London, and don’t even have the slightest of concept of where things are, but that doesn’t matter. When I get to a new place, I like to just wander and see things as they come. I’ve done it so many times, in cities all over the world, at times alone, at times with someone else. One of my favorite things to do as a tourist is to go on the underground to a station somewhere and when I get up from the station I just go in whatever direction seems the most interesting. One thing I am careful with doing this, is not to read any direction signs or definately not any maps, since that is going to reduce the amount of surprises I get. If you are going to do the touristing in a Maja way, avoid maps and signs and just go. I recommend it, you might find something you otherwise would never find if you only go for the big attractions. But if you do it like this, you might miss all of the big attractions though. 

So off me and Mark go. In that direction. It is sunny but cold outside, a wonderful spring day. We find ourselves getting back to the Kentish Town area, where a lot of people are walking around. Many of them wear face masks. I find Kentish Town a bit too busy and crowded. And it is all filled with strange people. People who look old. And scary. I’m not that fond of the place, and I can’t really understand the depth of the wrinkles in people’s faces. How can they look so worn out and old?

We walk into Kentish town, where there is this huge bridge, and I take a sharp left turn, walking onto a smaller, calmer street. It’s nice to walk in the calmer areas and I am fond of how the air feels a little bit easier to breathe and there aren’t as many strange people to look at anymore. Being in crowds makes me feel a little bit suffocated, especially right now. So it is perfect that I am experiencing lockdown London, and not full on tourist London. I am needing a little time to adapt. 

The town has turned into a little cute residential area, where just after walking a little while I can see Mark shine up like a little excited tomato. 

  • This is the first real apartment I lived in when I moved to London. 

He points me to an apartment complex. It’s cool that the first place I manage to find is his first apartment. And it isn’t really in a place you pass by that often. Mark stops by the local store next to the apartment to buy some fizzy water. I wait outside not to crowd the store, and as I peek in I can see him searching for something. It takes quite a while but soon enough he comes out with 2 bottles of fizzy water and some chocolate. Galaxy coins in a bag. I love that chocolate, Galaxy. It has rapidly become my new favorite chocolate. And he also brought us a crunchie bar. 

  • I know this chocolate! My friend bought it for me once, when I was young. It’s really good and tastes like caramel, right? I saw you looking around in the store a lot, what did you search for?
  • Oh, they didn’t have it. I’m going to buy it for you later. 

I’m happy with what we got and enjoy my chocolate and fizzy water breakfast, continuing down the road to wherever. 

We walk around a lot of smaller residential areas as I keep turning around at unpredictable times, but I think we are getting ourselves closer to London. Mark has promised me that he won’t tell me any directions. Today it is I who takes him around London, not the other way around. We get to a little open cafe where they have moved the cashier to the entrance door, so you are able to buy a drink for take away. I buy myself a latte and Mark goes for tea, of course. Like the incurable Englishman he is. 

Mark:

While we’re choosing and paying for our drinks, I have a little casual chat with the staff. Just the kind of little pleasant exchanges that happen in places like this. And I tell them we’re off out experiencing Maja’s first day in London and that this is her first coffee shop. As we walk away, Maja again reacts to this. ‘You really do talk to each other here,’ she says. Yes we do. I guess it’s in these little differences that you know you’re in another country. That and the bridge right in front of us which has ‘CAMDEN TOWN’ painted all over it.

Maja:

We take our drinks and continue along, and I see Mark kind of squeaking when he realises where we are. I lead us on a little road that doesn’t look that special, but on the left side of the road there is a little shop that Mark takes interest in. I go closer and realise I’ve found my way to the bass gallery. The famous bass gallery is just here. In front of me. When I’m just casually walking around, expecting to find nothing. Wow. Just amazing. It is closed of course, we’re in lockdown London, there are no stores open here. Expect pharmacies and food stores. We stand outside the store for a while, pointing at the different basses that we’ve looked at online. I really wish the place was open. Oh well, there’s no point in hanging around here for too long. We continue along, into Camden Town. 

Camden Town, oh my what a place, and I have BigNIC to show me around. BigNIC stands for, Big Name In Camden. 

Mark:

I was given this very flattering name in my first year in London by the bar staff at The Oxford. 

Maja:

He is known in every bar, every club. The kind of guy that just can go anywhere and always have people to talk to. Mark really knows his way around here. The town of the crazies. With a neverending nightlife. Everything is closed, of course, and it is really eerie on the streets. When all the cool people have retired to their fancy houses in the countryside or other countries even, it is only the crazies left. The people I wouldn’t really like to talk to, but they just keep on chatting to Mark. The place has a rundown feel to it, it isn’t really that nice right now. All bars, if you look into the windows even the chairs are put away. There’s nothing there. At times even the windows are barricaded shut with wooden boards. It’s a sad sight. This once very lively ghosttown.

We walk around Camden, and get to a big building site at the edge of Camden, so instead of going there I choose to turn around on a little street, which just leads me right back to where I started. So we get to see a little more of this town of the crazies. One thing I quickly notice is that Amy Winehouse is a big theme around here. I find pictures of her just about everywhere. Largely painted on building walls, and just about anywhere. I have to ask Mark.

  • Where do you get out of this town, we seem to just go in circles. Do we have to go to that building site over there past the cat building?
  • Yeah, that’s the way to town. 
  • OK, let’s go then.

We continue on our walk and arrive into an area with a completely different feel to it. Now the buildings aren’t that rundown anymore, they feel more like the modern buildings in Tokyo, a place I know very well and compare to a lot. We go into a building which Mark points out that we are currently next to. 

  • Come on, I’d like to show you where we are right now. 

We walk in a huge building with row after row of shops inside of it. All closed and dark giving of an eerie feel. There is almost no one around. One or two people around the place, and everyone wears masks of course. It’s a train station, and when I go up the stairs to the second floor I realise immediately where we are. This is Kings Cross. We stand looking at the international railway departure hall. And I’ve seen this place before, the first place I’ve actually recognised before. It’s from the scene when Hagrid disappears after giving Harry his ticket to the Hogwarts express at platform 9 and ¾. I know that they should have a tourist attraction with the entrance to platform 9 and ¾, but it seems to be nowhere around here. Oh well, maybe we’ll find it another day. I’m going to have Mark show me the way next time. I guess I am just that nerdy. I love the Harry Potter books. To me they are a big part of my childhood and I love them for all of the wonderful days I’ve spent sucked into the magical world of Harry Potter. 

Kings Cross is a train station, and thereby the only real place where they seem to be allowed to have toilets open. So we take the opportunity to use it, since it doesn’t seem to be the case for the smaller stations. That’s also a handy piece of information for you to put into your box of information you are probably never going to use again, in case you need a toilet in a pandemic, go to Kings Cross. 

We soon find ourselves hungry and tired from walking, outside the empty British Museum. It’s around lunchtime, and it would be great to find a bite somewhere to grab. But everything is closed. We’re now in the centre of London, which means the area that people don’t really live in. So there’s just not that much demand for takeaway restaurants during a pandemic. Takeaway is often not even an option, many of the open restaurants are delivery only, which doesn’t really fit when you’re on a long walk. We’re close to the Marquis so Mark tries to give his friend Tommy a call, but he isn’t available. Mark had an idea it would be cool to meet him up, but anyways it might be best not to. So we need to find something to eat now. We go sit down on a doorstep in a back alley in front of the British museum and rest for a little while. Tommy didn’t answer, so we need to find somewhere else. It’s cold and we’re tired and hungry. Let’s go search for a supermarket or something that’s open. We go and after a while we find an actually decent sized supermarket where we go in to buy lunch. They have a sushi desk in it with store made sushi. For us, that feels like hitting the jackpot. We buy sushi and some mango pieces, and look for a place to sit down to eat it. We settle on a beautiful railing outside a building, finally resting a little bit. 

  • Mark, say aaaah.
  • Aaaah.

And I put a big chunk of mango in his mouth. 

  • You know mango, it’s bass player food. If you’re a bass player, you can’t get nutrition from anything else.
  • I didn’t know that. That must have been why I’ve been losing weight recently. I haven’t had any mangoes!

After our wonderful meal of enough mango to keep us bass players healthy and some sushi for good sake, back up on our feet it is. We’re somewhere central right now, and I have no idea where. It’s not many people out and about the place, but we manage to find a couple of cafes that are open. There is one selling bubble tea which seems popular, but I want to go to the ordinary coffee shop next to it, which is a wonderful fairly big shop where the barista Dario is working. Mark strikes up a conversation and we talk about the different coffee types and I go for a nice brazilian blend. It turns out there really aren’t many customers coming around here, and I suspect we might be his first customers today. And it is afternoon. Not long until close for a coffee shop. We talk about everything from me being new in London to his country in South America. Talking for a while and he says:

  • Would you guys like some pastries?
  • Oh, yes please.
  • There really hasn’t been anyone buying pastries today.

He talks while he starts loading croissants and pain au chocolat into a paper bag, one, two, three. Oh wait what, how many is he going to fill them up with? He fills the bag to the brim, I think it is with about maybe 10 enormous pieces. Thankyou very much Dario. It’s well appreciated. 

We can’t be standing there holding the shop busy for too long, so off we go, continuing left. I’m feeling the left direction today. That’s the way to go. We walk for a while and then Mark informs me that the big building we see in front of us is St Paul’s Cathedral. Oh, cool. I found a famous place! We take some photographs and move in closer, to an almost completely empty Paternoster Square. Or as it looks like now and as we call it, Apocalypto Square. It is perfect for photographing while doing weird poses.  

The cold is biting us, so it is best to keep moving, but stopping for some nice photographs is a must. But I actually don’t feel like I need to photograph everything all the time anymore. I mean, I’m not here as a tourist really. I live here now. At least for now. So I can go to central London whenever I want. Which feels so cool.

We find ourselves walking into Shoreditch, where there is on the sidewalk a little sign saying that they sell wine there. This sounds very much like a bar, so we simply just must go inside and see what they sell. It’s a very nice little wine bar where you can actually buy bottles of wine to bring home. It’s so nice to see a place like this, it must be so cozy here when it’s open. The owner is really nice and sociable and seems so happy to see customers in the store. We ask if we could try any of the wines, and we’re lucky, because we can. So we get a couple of options of the already opened bottles presented to us, the bottles have been open a couple of weeks, but they’re still fine. It’s really fun to be able to try wine like this. This just isn’t a thing for me, I’ve never really done it like this, which makes it all the more special. We end up buying a nice bottle of wine from the owner’s home country, Hungary. They are currently renovating in preparation for the opening up, and at the same time they stay open as a wine store. They even do home deliveries of wine in the Shoreditch area. I can’t really grasp that concept, home delivery of wine. That’s just too good to be true, or am I just too fond of drinking?

Excusing ourselves and going out again, it starts to be time to return home. I’m just too tired. We hop on a bus, and I finally get to try the double decker London buses for the first time. After you get in, beep your card at the reader completely covered in the driver’s plastic cube, then you see the staircase leading up to the second floor. We go up there, and we’re alone so of course we sit in the front. Watching people all around town, going around in the bus that seems impossibly big for London’s narrow streets. It’s like an illusion, a magic trick perhaps. The buses are simply so big I can’t understand how they can drive them on these narrow streets. It must be magic. Like that bus in Harry Potter that magically changes size fitting all kinds of narrow openings. Yes. I’ve decided. That’s how the London buses work. That must be it. We sit and rest and watch the people on the street from the front window on the top floor of the bus, and I see this guy dressed kinda bad with an acoustic guitar without a case in his hand. He jumps on our bus and sits down on the lower level and I can hear him start playing. After a while he jumps off and we’re alone again. I guess these things just happen around here. How cool is that?

Mark:

It’s been a wonderful first day out in London for Maja and I’m not entirely sure who’s shown who around. But really, with the newbie leading the way, we’ve seen a whole different London than we would have done if I’d been in front and brought us to all the usual sights, which I’m sure we’ll see in due time anyway. 

What we can’t do so much anymore is talk about it. We’ve done it so much in the past week or so that late in the day our voices just start giving out. It happens to me first, and then when I mention it to Maja, she says that yes, her throat isn’t feeling quite right either. I know what to do about this and when we pop into a shop for water, I leave Maja to get that while I go hunting for honey and a small bottle of lemon juice. Out on the street and we both have a little of each and instantly feel the relief of the rough throat disappearing and something like voice normality resuming. But really, I can barely talk anymore. I don’t think Maja is that far behind me.

Off the bus and we’re into Kentish Town, getting off a few stops early to essentially walk the rest of the way home through a street that Maja has only seen before at night, on the walk here on that first day from the airport. But there is an ulterior motive here as we use the walk through town as an opportunity to have a look in the windows of estate agents to see what apartments are available around here and what we would be looking at for rents. I have an idea of course, but Maja doesn’t. More significant than the ridiculously high prices is the fact that we’re even considering this at all less than two weeks after we first met, but that seems to be where we are now. Yep, we haven’t even spoken about it, but here we are looking for our own apartment, like something we’re just taking for granted.

Maja:

It’s interesting taking a look at the real estate postings, to see how the reality of living London life will be like. We need at least a two room apartment, so I will be able to work in the mornings in my home office while Mark is asleep and also that he won’t have to disturb my sleep coming home at 3-4 am after playing the bars of London. It won’t be cheap, but is totally doable if I get myself a new computer engineering job here. It’s something to keep in mind for the future, but as of now I have a couple of other things that are more important. Like the impossible list. And also I want to feel a little less sad before looking for a job. Let’s just live life in the moment for a while, I think I deserve that. I want to spend some time looking at options, and see where life leads me. I’m sure it’ll be fine.

London, day 12

Day 12

Wednesday March 3

Mark:

Rehearsal at Sarah’s today, and with quarantine over, it means Maja can finally go too, which essentially means that, on only her second proper in London, she’s about to have her first session with what will be her first London band. But physics intervenes and we don’t make it.

Pretty much our whole house has been furnished with things found on the street. In London, if people buy new things and don’t need their old things, which are often not even that old, they just put them outside somewhere. If it’s an electrical item, there will often be a note saying, ‘this works.’ Our whole garden was kitted out that way, with a little help from the Palmerston regarding the parasols and deckchairs which Maja has come to love so much. This is how we have come to have an office chair as one of our kitchen chairs. She’s sitting on it now and I’m kind of milling about doing stuff. Until I decide to sit down and have a little close time. So there we are, Maja sitting back in the chair, me sitting on her facing the wrong way. All’s going well and fun until we slightly adjust our balance and the adjustable chair does what it does in these kinds of situations and adjusts. That’s not normally an issue at all. But then, it normally doesn’t have someone sitting backwards on it. And that’s the way I go now. Full on backwards, launched out of the chair. And Maja can’t do anything about it because she’s been thrown totally forwards. So now we’re both going. This might not be quite so bad, except Maja was facing the radiator, which means I’m now unknowingly heading towards it at quite frightening speed. Or to be more accurate, the back of my head is about to hit it at quite frightening speed. And, according to my sources, with a particularly frightening sound. 

Maja:

As the chair disappears from beneath me and we’re thrown at a terrifying speed, I hear one of the worst sounds I’ve ever heard. Not quite a thud, more of a bash which is then followed by silence. Almost like a kickdrum. And just after that my forehead hits the radiator as well. It hurts, shoots right through me, but soon afterwards I feel OK. It’s just a small bruise. But Mark, on the other hand, falls down. Not quite immediately, but I see him losing a bit of power as he half sits, half leans on the radiator. It doesn’t look good. A second or so later it’s like he has regained some kind of control and tries to sit up and repeats “I’m alright, I’m alright” weakly. Oh no mister. You’re certainly not OK. Lie down now, and I accept no resistance. I gently but strongly push him down, holding my hand under his head to soften it. And there I let him lie there for a while, checking that he is OK. I think he’s got a concussion. Almost definitely. 

Mark:

That all happens and I crumple to the floor, my crumpling considerably hastened by Maja projectiling on top of me as she suffers her own fall. In this fashion we very messily complete our undignified drop to the floor and that’s where the similarity of our journeys end. She’s immediately up and I’m not. I’m kind of half sitting, half lying there on my back, head very clumsily and uncomfortably propped up by a hard, white slab of metal. My eyes are closed in pain and a little bit of shock, causing considerable alarm in Maja who’s now looking down on me asking with some deep concern if I’m alright. With that I think I really should open my eyes and let her know I’m at least not dead. This proves a little harder than I was expecting and it’s not too long before my eyes are more or less half closed again. ‘Stay there. Do not move,’ says Maja, her medical experience and knowledge kicking in. I do, and she makes sure no serious damage has been done before she gives me the all clear to stand up, where we do another cursory check to make sure all things are working as they should. They are. More or less and I’m insisting that I’m alright. ‘No you’re not,’ she says. ‘That was a heavy fall. You have a concussion.’ Concussion schmushon. I’m fine. But no. She insists that we go upstairs and I lie down in bed, at least until we can confirm that I am absolutely alright. 

Very quickly after lying down, I start to suspect she might actually have a point. My head is hurting. A lot. It feels thick and heavy and I’m dizzy. So much so that the room isn’t quite spinning, but it is at least moving backwards and forwards a little which it certainly wasn’t doing before so it must be me. Maybe it really was a little bit more than an innocent knock on the head. I do hope the radiator’s OK. Maja says nothing for 10 minutes or so and just lets me recover my senses (a questionable exercise at the best of times to be fair). Once I’ve come round a little more, enough to admit that yes, she’s right, I say we should probably get in touch with Sarah and cancel today. Well, duh. So, instead of going off and having a musical session round there, we stay here and Maja sits by the bed, passing the time in my de facto absence by singing along to a whole bunch of her favourite songs. Which is how I discover that she can actually sing pretty well. For now I’ll file that away for future use as I lie back and continue to be useless for most of the rest of the day.

I’ve really got to confess that not everything in these accounts is quite as I remember it, but I was concussed so what the hell do I know?

Maja:

I’m glad I’m stubborn, because he is certainly not OK, I very much realise this when I help him up the stairs. Then, once upstairs I have him lie down while I check online for what to do if you suspect a concussion. I decide that he is not in any danger and will be fine if he just spends the day in bed until he feels better, so I keep him there. He’s not in danger, but he will certainly not be able to move around much today. Oh, what a bummer. We had all of those grand plans of going to Sarahs for rehearsal, and enjoying the second day out of self isolation and here I am having to stay in this room all over again. I feel a bit bored after a while, not really having anything to do. So I default to doing something I like to do while bored. Singing along to songs I like. Right now I’m into Red Hot Chili Peppers and Gorillaz, so I mainly sing tunes from those.

London, day 13

Thursday March 4

Mark:

I’m on a little trip out to the shop for milk and other basic things when I see a nearby house has left a whole bunch of garden stuff outside their front garden. I don’t register any immediate interest and walk past it without too much of a second look. But then, just as I get to our garden I glance back and see that there might just be something of interest. Not anything actually in the display, more what a portion of it is actually on. I walk up to it all and see that this section is arrayed on a two level trolley. A very dirty trolley, but quite interesting nonetheless. I wonder what this would look like cleaned up, I think. Only one way to find out. I have no idea what this kind of thing could be used for, but I think it’s something worth having a look at at least. My idea is to take it into our back garden, give it a good clean, then chuck it back out into the front garden and then show it to Maja who can decide if it’s worth keeping or not. I really expect her to say no but that’s OK. Apart from anything else, it would probably be just more clutter in a tiny room. It might not even comfortably fit. 

Oh well. Let’s see. It really cleans up quite well and I can now see it in all its silver and gold newness. Now it also finally looks like what it is. A cake trolley. I take it upstairs and place it in the front garden. Now to go and get Maja and see what she thinks of it. She comes up the stairs mildly curious and, before I open the front door I say, ‘Feel free to say no. I’m really not sure myself.’ I open it up and there it is. She’s not hugely impressed but she’s not dismissing it either, saying, ‘Let’s bring it in. You never know.’ I didn’t see that coming to be fair. But OK. In it comes. We now have a cake trolley.

Maja:

After receiving the perfect little gift of a cake trolley, which sits perfectly as a little wheeled table in my room, it’s time to go out. Out to explore the world. Or more like: out to see Camden market. Yes, I know, everything is closed. But that is not stopping me. Let’s go and see what we find. The streets are, well, not quite empty but almost. There’s not that much movement around. We start walking down the highstreet, where most of the people are walking around. It’s a nice walk, the weather is fresh and the cold is slightly biting but not too much. Actually very comfortable. After a while we reach Camden again. It’s a town filled with empty bars, and there’s almost no one walking around. Mark keeps pointing out all bars, with trivia in the style of, in this bar this and that famous band started out, but it seems to not have survived the pandemic. And, I played there with the Insiders, and other stories. I listen and can’t help but feel a little overwhelmed. It’s a lot. Just… A lot. 

Walking for a little while we reach Camden Market. It’s a famous place that tourists usually go to. A sightseeing spot. It has restaurants, bars, food stands, boats and shops. Everything you can possibly imagine a sightseeing spot having. Expect people. And everything is closed. Except for the food stands. London is currently open for take away catering, which means that food stands are allowed. But there is a catch here. You’re not allowed to sit down, or stand at one place and eat. So you need to eat while walking. We see this getting enforced by security officers walking around the area, and if they see someone sitting down for a little while on some steps or something they walk up to the person and ask them to walk along. I never saw them enforcing it any stronger than that, but this really makes it impossible to rest, even for a little while. Since the food stands are open we walk around to see what they have open. It’s a lot of different food options, Chinese, Mexican, all kinds of food from countries I can’t remember and of course, fish and chips. I want fish and chips. I don’t think I’ve ever actually had it before. It’s just not something we eat in Sweden. We don’t have a culture of deep frying things, so everything fried is quite new to me. I want to try it. We order one serving each, and we get this wonderful fish and chips with a nice pink sauce to it. It’s really nice, and feels very very British. Mark starts a little chat with the chef in the food stand. It’s obvious that these places have had a rough time, but it is always interesting to hear a little more detail about what’s happening. A lot of the places around here that have a possibility to be open look like small businesses and they seem to be some of the more lucky food places. And of course, Mark and the chef soon start bonding over something specific to northern English people. I think it’s about curry sauce with pineapple in it. Whatever they mean by that. I’m not quite sure. There’s so many kinds of curry in this world that I can’t even begin to guess.

We want to stand there and eat our fish, but the chef asks us to go stand by the railing of the river since they can’t have people there. We do, but soon a security officer comes and tells us to continue along. So we do. Trying to eat the fish while also trying to not let it cool down too quickly in the slightly icy wind. 

It’s still a very good fish. 

Time flies when you have fun, and we realise it starts to be time for us to return home to get our gear and walk over to Sarah’s for our first rehearsal. Halfway home Mark gets a phone call. It’s Sarah, cancelling the rehearsal once again. Well, it’s fine, we’ll just do it another day.

I’m not really complaining, it’s nice spending time with Mark. We have a couple of stories to tell each other today as well. And the ceiling is starting to get a little bit lonely since we’ve not been there to watch it.

London, Day 16 and 17

Sunday March 7

Mark:

On Tuesday February 23 we decided we were going to start to try writing songs together. Since then we’ve written something everyday in one of the notebooks – that’s the three I bought at the beginning, and an extra A4 book. That something could be a few verses, or both of us writing whole sets of lyrics each, sometimes spanning up to four or five pages at a time. Translating the written word into a song is a whole other thing, but getting something out of a blank page is also progress, so the ideas are there. And what we’re telling is the story of us. Nonsensical conversations turned into fantasy lyrics, or just simply tell it as it happened lyrics, or say how you feel lines. All put together for a whole concept of what we see as just feelgood writing which we hope to turn into feelgood songs complete with singalong choruses. In short, we’re attempting to musically bottle up what we are and somehow, we have no idea how just yet, take it out to people.

Maja:

I love writing these little lyrics. Just me and Mark, with a notebook and dreams and laughter. Cute little happy rhymes, mixed with dark stories about what we’ve been through. There’s a lot of artistic freedom of course, I’m not saying that everything is based on reality, but it feels really good to put pen to paper and try to express feelings in rhymes. Wonderful really. I’ve never really done this, and thoughts just keep on flowing out of my head down on paper in little bucket loads at a time.

Mark:

With that, we get started for the first time today as Maja sets up a studio in this little room and we tackle the first issue of percussion, which I do by improvising different percussion sounds on the acoustic guitar we borrowed from Sarah. I manage to come up with something that sounds like a kick drum and a snare, and we record a kick track, then a snare track. And now we have drums. Or something like them. After this it’s down to experimentation as we try different chord progressions and break out some of our lyrics to see what kinds of vocals we can come up with. It’s all part of the process and I’m not expecting whole chunks of already written lyrics to end up fully formed in a song, but it’s great to have something to start with, and as I thought, once a line emerges, we really get hold of it and develop it to come up with something different. We both have a go at singing lines as they come, to see where they can be taken, but we don’t get a massive way into this as, not long after we’ve got it set up, we have to leave to go to Sarah’s. But that’s fine. We’ve finally started actually trying to do something with the lyrics we’ve been writing, and that is a really big deal.

Maja:

My room is impossibly small, but since we can’t hang out in Mark’s room because Jenn lives there, we spend all our time in my room. My bed is too small to sleep two people in, so Mark still gets to sleep downstairs. Being as it is, small, crowded, there’s no way that you could possibly even fit a desk in here. But we have the cake trolley that Mark found, so I could use that to set up a makeshift desk. Maybe. I search around in the room for anything usable, and behind the bed I find a couple of broken slits for the bed. Perfect. I take the slits, tape them with some gaffer tape and put them between the handles of the trolley. Voila, a table! The computer goes on the slits, the interface beneath and then we can connect the microphone to that. Perfect. Mark starts to do a lot of different things and all I can think is wooah. I have no idea what to do here, how to help. It’s amazing and a bit daunting at the same time. Especially when he starts to play the guitar and totally goes all out in his singing. How does he even do that? I just don’t know. How am I going to do that? I understand that even less. It’s a bit scary. And I get all nervous and flustered, not wanting to make a fool out of myself perversely managing to make an even a bigger fool out of myself.

Mark:

No you don’t. This creative thing is hard. Pulling songs and ideas out of thin air. The key is to not be afraid to be terrible. Everyone does stuff that’s terrible. You just do your best to not let anyone outside the room see your terrible stuff. But of course, sometimes things do slip through the quality test and make it onto the stage. But even then, when you think you’ve done good stuff, you’ve just kinda got to hope other people agree. Or even then you could be deluding yourself and making a mess 

strutting terrible stuff all over the stage.

Maja:

Looks like you have a lot of experience of making a fool out of yourself. That’s great.

Mark:

The very definition of an experienced person is someone who’s made a lot of mistakes. 

We get to Sarah’s and she’s all over Maja. Geisha Rising is the name of Sarah’s new pet project that aims to promote all kinds of different artists and she’s blown away that into her life has walked a girl who embodies quite a few qualities of the Geisha; not only is Maja adept with a sword, being a proficient practitioner of Aikido, she also speaks fluent Japanese. Add that to the possibility that she bears more than a passing resemblance to the logo that Sarah has had commissioned for her project, and Sarah, a deep spiritual believer, really feels a significant alignment of the stars. Not least where it comes to myself and Maja. ‘You two are the real deal,’ she says with absolute conviction. Me and Maja coyly look at each other and laugh. ‘Well,’ says Maja, ‘We have some news.’ Sarah takes a seat and looks at us. We look at each other again, each daring the other to say it. But before either of us has a chance to say anything, Sarah bursts out with what sounds like a one word sentence, ‘You’regettingmarried.’ We don’t even answer. We just laugh hysterically and Sarah launches herself from the chair to envelope us in a huge group hug. ‘I knew it, I knew it, I just knew it,’ she says in between what are almost sobs. 

Then, all of a sudden she gets serious. ‘How’s it going over at the house?’ she asks. My silence says it all, while Maja replies, after some hesitation, ‘Not good. Really not good at all.’ This part hasn’t been written about so much, more kinda being a between the lines thing. But I should break cover here and say that Maja and Jenn don’t talk. Not, aren’t talking. They don’t talk to each other. At all. They’re never even in the same room. As far as I’m aware, on the first night, they said hi to each other and the word count has remained the same ever since. As for me, well, Jenn hasn’t said a whole lot to me lately either and I’m now even knocking on the bedroom door before I go in. A room I’ve lived in for over five years. Which I’m paying half the rent for. But strangely, it does feel right to do that. To just walk in would feel like an invasion. Of my own room. But it really is different for Maja. I’ve been in this house for six years and known Jenn for 12. Maja is brand new in the house and didn’t arrive in the best emotional shape as it was, so the potential for her feeling awkward and generally unwelcome is off the chart. As well as not having written too much of that in here, it really isn’t something we’ve spoken about a great deal either.

‘OK,’ says Sarah, nodding sagely, wheels clearly really turning. She stares at us for a second, as if taking us in, then says, ‘How would you guys feel about coming and living here? Rent free.’ What now? Me and Maja don’t even bother to consult. An instant, breathless yes is all that comes out of both of us. I might even just make a sound that sounds like it could be positive. We rush to her and there are more exuberant group hugs. But Sarah isn’t finished. ‘That’s really great,’ she says once we’ve all broken away. There’s more. ‘I’ve been wanting to go away quite a lot for a while but I’ve not had anyone to watch the cats and I’ve wanted someone for a while to just be living here and there’s not really been anyone I know I would be completely comfortable with asking. But I look at you two, so much in love, and having a bit of a hard time of it with a difficult living situation and, well, Mark I know, but Maja, I feel such a great energy off you and the two of you together, well…

‘The thing is, it’s not just helping look after the cats while I’m away now and then. I’ve been thinking for a while of just getting away from London altogether. I mean, to live. I’ve always seen this as just a temporary base for myself and I’m getting restless to go back out into the world again. Where, I have no idea, but within a month or two, and it will be for a long time. It would mean so much to me to know that my home  and my cats were safe and that there was someone living here that I could really trust. And I just know that’s you guys. All I’d ask is that you looked after the bills. Everything else is taken care of. Would you be up for all that?’ We are now nodding frantically and totally disbelievingly, totally unable to take in what was being said as it was being said. It’s just unreal. This does not happen. Yes yes, yes and yes is all we can say. ‘My babies, that’s just wonderful,’ she says, grabbing us both in yet another huge hug. ‘I just know this is going to be amazing. You guys are perfect for me and for this place. Before I go off on my travels, we can also work together, play music together, anything. Whatever you want. And this place will be yours, so treat it as your home. Whatever improvements or anything you want to do, just go for it.’ She then says that she has to go out and meet someone now, so will we be OK if she leaves us on our own for a little while? And we can also take some time to think about it. Yes we will definitely be fine here, and no need to think about anything at all. With that, another hug and Sarah is out the door. As soon as it closes, me and Maja look at each other in complete, total incredulity. What was that? Did you hear what I heard? We have place to move into now? And in a short while it’s going to be just us? It’s going to be our place? In practically central London? For free? This is just too much. This just doesn’t happen. Really? Has this just happened? It has, but we really are having a hard time taking it in. So much that we’re convinced we must have misheard or misunderstood something. But we can’t figure out what any of that could possibly be, so we conclude that we did indeed hear and understand the same things. Wow. OK. Time to check out the place. Our new place. That we’ll be moving into in a couple of days. Only a few days ago, Maja said out loud, ‘I wonder what our place will look like.’ I pretty much shut the conversation down as didn’t seem to be something possible so I didn’t see it as being really worth thinking about. ‘I was only thinking about it, it’s fun,’ she said. So I played along and we thought and talked about this impossible, mythical London apartment we were going to move into. All the time I was thinking, ‘I’m on furlough, and will have to keep up rent here as well for at least some kind of respectable period. No. Impossible. Not going to happen, but hey, let’s play pretend. Well…

Sarah’s said the place is a bit of a mess and there’s a lot of work to be done, but that’s fine. We’re up for it all. And I know what our room will be. It has to be. Sarah of course has the main big double room with its view overlooking central London. Alright, let’s not get carried away here. It’s not the classic skyline and bright lights, but over and through the houses of north London you can see through Kings Cross to one of the prominent buildings of the city. You can see a tall building, you can see central London. That’s good enough. The place also has what we’ve come to know as the main room, which is where all general hanging out and rehearsing takes place. This is in the middle of the apartment, with the small kitchen off that to the left, and the bathroom off it to the right. From the main room we have a corridor leading to the front door with a toilet at the immediate right. Continue on and you have the door on the right to Sarah’s room. At the end on the left you have the front door. To the right of that is the door of mystery, which I happen to know is basically used as a storage room for things belonging to Sarah’s friends. Then to the right of that is what I suppose would otherwise be the front room, which overlooks the street. It’s a beautiful room and really quite big. This has to be what will become our bedroom. We go and stand in there for a few moments trying to take all this in, spinning round, arms outstretched, in what will become ours. This, then later on, the whole thing. And between now and then, we will be living with the wonderful, hugely talented singing Sarah in what will be just the most amazing three person house share. Me and Sarah already have our connection, personally and musically. And the way she’s been drawn to Maja is just huge and instant.

For so long, in my head I’ve still been solving the impossible list by not thinking about it, just living day by day in the delusion that solutions will just pop up out of the road as we come to them. Now, here we are with a few huge delusions realised in one hit. We’ve found an apartment in lockdown London which, despite all our optimistic noises to each other, seemed totally insurmountable. But now with this, we’ve also solved the financial/work situation of how the hell I would pay my part of it, and sorted out how I can keep paying my share of the room with Jenn. Just like that, the impossible is all taken care of; I can continue to pay my share of the rent I’ve been paying all along with the furlough I’m still getting and, er, that’s it. Job done, impossible ticked off the list. All it took was for someone to offer us our own central London apartment for free. Pretty obvious when you think about it.

Maja:

Eeeeeeh. Wait what just happened? I don’t think I quite follow. 

London, Day 17

Monday March 8

Maja:

Today we have nothing planned, which is perfect and it means that we can just walk around and talk about everything that just happened. Which I still just can’t believe. Nothing really makes sense to me anymore. We need time to realise what just happened, and how better to do that then to take a wonderful walk around the neighbourhood. To Camden Market maybe? We find ourselves a wonderful little coffee shop in a charming little record store where I’m finally able to satisfy my coffee cravings with a wonderfully made flat white with amazing coffee art in a takeaway cup. After wandering around and taking in Camden Market, we start to make our way home again. ‘Hey, Mark. I don’t want to go home just yet. Can’t we continue?’ And so we do, ending up in Waterlow Park where we see the ducks swimming harmoniously in the pond. Then we go and find a bench where we sit and enjoy the view of our London. We’ve been out for way over three hours, and return home excited about whatever is going to happen next.

The Tour Diaries

Prologue, day one

Wednesday November 3

Mark:

Living in your own studio in the Irish countryside with no neighbours with your girlfriend who also just happens to be half your act really isn’t a bad way to go about things. And mornings like this really are what it’s all about. We have a nice, lazy start to the day, waking up slow. But once we’re up, we’re all go and it’s on. We hit the studio. Hard.

We’ve had the set pretty much there since last weekend. Now it’s all about running the thing and polishing and sculpting which has been our priority one everyday.

To do that, we also have the warm up thing which often includes a cup of tea and a trip out to our back garden which contains a ruined 18th century factory. And a river. It’s a perfect setting and it truly fits our location as the only house on the most central crossroads in the country. This makes us geographically the most central people in the country.

So out we go to prepare, Maja loudly running her vocal scales to a tutorial video while I join in beside her but not quite so loud. I kinda keep it more talky level. While she’s the singer, my backing vocal duties mean I also have to keep up my end up. So here we are, wandering down to the river at the bottom of our garden on a crisp, semi blue skied mid morning. Flanked by the dramatic three and six storey half destroyed mill buildings and with a light rain gently swirling, the crows look down on us as, steaming mugs in hand, we run through the exercises free of any inhibition. Although the main street of our small town is right across that river, no-one can hear us.

Maja’s progress has been a thing of wonder and I consider this again as her voice soars and soars through the vocal exercises while she runs up the scales, each repetition higher than the one before. By sheer force of will she has crafted herself into a singer. She had a nice voice when we met in February, but nowhere near the power or control she wields now. And here we are. Six months after the Brexit instigated move to Ireland from London, we’ve developed our sound and our set and are ready to hit the stage. For Maja’s first ever gig.

In the past few days we’ve stopped facing each other in rehearsal and have now set ourselves up side by side, as we would be on a stage. So many young bands make the mistake of not doing that, always rehearsing in the round, and then they’re suddenly lost at their first gig as they can’t see or communicate with each other as easily as they’re used to. We also have all our equipment set up as though for a gig, speaker on, mixing desk to our left. My guitar mic’d up as it will be, although hopefully this will be the only gig where we do that; by the time we hit the stage after this first time, we’ll have an electro acoustic. And we’ll be in Berlin. The opening city for our European tour. The mad thing here is that we are following through on intentions we stated after we’d known each other less than four weeks. Back then, on March 17 and in the midst of despair at Brexit threatening to tear us apart, we decided we were going to defeat its consequences by writing songs and touring the world. And here we are, an English guy and a Swedish girl in the dead centre of Ireland with songs written and up to speed, and about to start on the next bit.

Although we know these songs very well by now and have recorded a few of them, there are still a surprising amount of details to get right and internalise, and in some cases even rewrite as we feel there are parts that just don’t quite work. Now it’s time to look at that micro picture. Really dive deep and spend time on the smallest of details. Then emerge and see the bigger picture again, the song complete. One two three go. Again and again, song after song. Got through that, now back to the start and play the whole set without pause, details complete. This includes how we approach my backing vocals and, with Maja’s voice having got stronger by the day, we look at changing a few keys. Each new key change adds that little extra whip and pop. I’d say that since we started recording a few weeks ago, Maja’s voice has undergone the biggest improvement it’s ever been through. It’s the most impressive and quickest growth I’ve ever seen in a musician and it has not happened by accident. This has been sheer will and dedication.

Maja:

Lately it’s been hard actually getting to the singing, and as things tend to do, they are starting to slip away from me. It’s on the agenda to do every day, but even living together with Mark it can be hard to get it started. But as soon as I’m up we’re on it. The rehearsals right now have started to take the shape of going through the setlist focusing on the places I think is the hardest to nail. So we get on it and start to iron out these little places. I’m having a bit of a hard time with some of the melodies, and am still at times singing certain pitches a little bit flat. We also take a look at the setlist. I’ve been finding the song When I’m With You a little bit hard to nail recently, and maybe I’m finding it a little bit uninspiring right now, so even though I know the song, at times when I sing it, it sounds a little bit – off maybe? So that song goes out of the setlist for now. It’s still a great song, we both love it, but it’s a risk right now.
A risk we’re not willing to take. 

When it comes to originals, people usually have very short attention spans. If you go to a pub on a Saturday night, people want to hear covers. They want to sing along, or just continue chatting without putting that much focus into it. With originals, people usually lose interest quite quickly. So we’ve prepared a shortened setlist of five songs, so we can keep their attention. Open up with: Smile Is Going Round, I Like You (Better When You’re Naked), Freefall, All That I Can Be and lastly All Kinds Of Wonderful. It’s a short set, maybe 20-25 minutes, that is almost guaranteed to keep the crowd’s attention. No really slow songs, everything is powerful, fast paced and poppy. Just fun. And then we’re leaving a couple of songs that we could get to if the feeling is right. We rehearse on and off until I say no, I can’t continue anymore. It’s around five and my voice is breaking. After dinner I go to rest, and spend a little too long lying in bed mindlessly watching silly videos. Mark soon comes next to me and soon I can hear him start to snore. As it approaches nine, I toss the covers off me. ‘Wake up, if we’re going to see the guys we need to go now.’

Mark:

The guys are Pat and Colm. We met them on Sunday at the end of our day trip to Tullamore, the biggest town in Offaly. We’d been round a bunch of pubs and were on our last one before catching the last train back to Clara, which left at 9:30. And it was here that Pat just happened to be performing, his friend Colm tagging along for moral support and to sing a song or two. We got talking to Pat before the show, introducing ourselves as musicians and he was very welcoming. So much so that when we rose from our seats half an hour later, and said bye, and that we had to leave for our last train, he said, ‘Stick around and have the craic. I’m going your way. I’ll give you a lift.’ Wonderful. So stick around we did, and got into the fun hanging out with Colm and having a good dance around the place and taking in the general feelgood vibes created by one man and his guitar.

On the way home, they told us they were playing a little informal show at The Trap, our local, and where we just happened to be playing on Friday. They’d love to see us there, they say. So, tonight, there is where we’re going to go.

Maja:

Mark is immediately up, properly putting on a shirt. I reluctantly brush my hair. I’m tired, I’m going to go there, but I won’t even bother changing clothes. I’m wearing my Gorillaz sweatshirt, the one that only the band got from Damon Albarn during their tour a couple of years ago, the Humanz tour. Under it just a worn down T-shirt. Well, I’m ready to go. We get there and just inside Pat and Colm and a couple of others are sitting there next to the entrance drinking pints of Guinness. We say hello, and go get ourselves a beer each then go sit down at the table next to them, in the corner of the pub. We’re a bit too far away to participate in the discussions but we’re still closeby and the football is on. Me and Mark start to talk details about the tour we’re planning. We’ve recently started to entertain the concept of really penetrating a couple of cities before continuing along. Like, actually be in Berlin for a month or so, to build a reputation, and then start over in another city, maybe Amsterdam or Prague. Do that on repeat until we hopefully penetrate something bigger and get ourselves on to a real, organised tour or something else that could be amazing to do.

Mark seems a little bit bored with me, and wants to chat with others as well since we’re out. But I really don’t feel that way. Not tonight. I just want to see the music show, watch the football and drink one or maybe two beers. Without talking to anyone. So I sit back and let Mark go and talk with someone. It’s nice not having to be social all the time. I’m great at being social, but I kind of need to be in the mood for it. I just want to be with Mark and watch what’s going on. Colm asks why Mark hasn’t brought his guitar, but it’s not really what I want to spend my night doing. Sitting alone just watching Mark play. That feels a bit… unfriendly even. 

Mark:

I actually thought it would be a bit presumptuous to just bring an instrument. Especially if I had chosen to bring anything it would have been my bass and amp which would have had everyone wondering what the hell I planned to do with that at a table performance. Of course my volume would have been totally appropriate and fine, but I think just walking in with a 300 watt amp would have sent the wrong message. Once I’ve had the invitation, I do consider going home to get it and even say I could do so but I sense a very subtle reaction from Maja and ask, away from the guys, how she feels. Totally reasonably, she says, ‘I don’t want to be sitting here on my own while you go off and play with people. That’s not really my idea of a good night out.’ Yeah. Fair enough.

Maja:

So Mark decides to stay with me instead. As the football ends the musicians go to the stage area and sit around the table bringing out their instruments. Today’s musicians consist of Pat and his friends: his uncle Colm on guitar, Michael on Cajon and guitar, and Aine on violin. Pat calls us over and invites us to sit at the table but we feel that would be a bit of an intrusion. We’re fine where we are for now.

They start to sing and we sit close by listening. After a while Mark goes to chat with some people and I enjoy my one beer and entertainment. Completely convinced I’m going to keep a low profile, not talking to anyone. 

Mark:

I’m not bored with Maja. Not at all. But yeah, we’re out and we’re playing in this place in a few days’ time. I want to be sociable. But of course, we can hang out as just the two of us as well. It’s just that we’re also new to this town and there are a few people dotted about here tonight that we’ve got to know a little and who have been very welcoming. I’d like to go and say hi at the very least, and so I do.

Maja:

After a while Mark comes up to me to say that someone wants us to play. What?

No. No way! No, no, no, no, no. That’s not happening. I’m overly clear telling Mark this, then I escape to the ladies room. Upon my return, Mark grabs my shoulders, looks me in the eyes, very seriously, telling me: We should really play something. They’re asking us to.’ ‘No way Mark. We’re playing on Friday. I don’t want to wreck my voice.‘ Once again I try to get back to my seat. I feel a bit, well, not ready to perform. Mark is on me once again, ‘Please, we kind of need to.’ ‘Fine, but ONLY if I get to do Breakthrough. Because my voice isn’t holding up for any of the big songs.’ Mark seems relieved. 

Mark:

It’s the landlord Jimmy who first asks us to play. When I mention it to Maja she firmly says she doesn’t want to. Her voice is weak from everything we’ve done today and she doesn’t want to blow it for Friday. Fair enough. And anyway, I’m not going to begin to try to persuade Maja to do something she doesn’t want to do. I go and tell Jimmy we’re not playing and he’s like, ‘Why not?’ He doesn’t say it, but I can see it written all over face. We’re playing in here Friday. There’s an audience here and musicians with instruments that we can use to help advertise ourselves, both for ourselves and, as far as Jimmy’s concerned, for his bar. I totally get it. I return to Maja and yes, I’m a bit more forceful this time, saying that we’re here Friday, the bar has been kind enough to give us the gig, the least we can do is play at least one song here to help promote it. She gets it too.

Maja:

It is kind of a sit around the table with the musicians there, who seem to be playing mainly for themselves. I feel ridiculously out of place, like I don’t belong there. I combat my feelings and go up to the table where they welcome me. Mark gets to borrow Colm’s guitar, and we both sit down at the table. One, two, three and we’re off. It’s a very low song and I can’t sing it strongly. It’s gentle, which is why I chose it, and it is not directly going to be heard outside of the table. The vocal melody is delicate, intricate, and just can’t be sung in a powerful voice. It needs to be amplified. I can barely hear myself, trying to sing it as strongly as I can without any amplification. After a little while, I can hear the other musicians join in. Some gentle cajon. And some of the most beautiful violin playing I’ve ever heard. It sounds so beautiful, with the little orchestra backing my very delicate voice. The song is enormous, but so delicate that you can’t hear it if you don’t sharpen your ears. As the last note seems to be endlessly dragged across the universe, slowly fading out in the ether, applause fills up the newly made sound space. People shout at us to sing something more powerful and the musicians around us look astonished. Aine told me that she loved the quality of my voice and would love to hear it amplified. I am absolutely delighted. Delighted beyond. Pat seems to have been completely taken by surprise. He tells Mark that he absolutely loves the song and that the chords in the melody are absolutely beautiful. Both me and Mark shine with pride as we say thank you. But the consensus right now seems to be that we have to sing one more song. Oh. What to do? We need something a bit more powerful now. ‘Let’s go with freefall.’ 

Mark directs me this time to direct the bar instead of the musicians and I stand up. No way I can sing Freefall without standing up. As we start I realise how the whole bar is into it. Freefall isn’t a quick song, but it is powerful. It has some really heavy parts in it where I can actually use some volume and punk vibes, but it has a lot of gentleness in it as well if you choose to perform it that way. I think we’re joined by the other musicians in this song, but I am too busy performing to really notice. I am absolutely in the moment. I am living the song, using my whole body to express it. It’s like the whole world disappears as I sing. I get jolted back to reality by the occasional forgotten lyric, but more often than not my brain just keeps imagining some sound to put in the place instead. Avoiding breaking the spell. It’s like I can hear the room get shocked and sucked into the song, when the dynamics of the song changes. Once again the song dies out as I slowly fade out on the last note. The audience is delighted and I hear nothing but applause and praise everywhere I look.

We order ourselves a second beer, sitting down with the musicians, chatting a little bit in between the songs. There’s not that many breaks in it, but they seem to have newfound respect for both of us which is great. After a little while Mark calls me, telling me about this girl that seems to want to talk to me. I leave the musicians table, walk up and lean towards a bar chair. This girl Sevilla comes up to me, totally praising me and being very vocal about it. ‘I love what you did, you sing great. But I want to hear you sing more. I want you to sing more powerfully.’ Sevilla says. I try to defend myself, ‘Well, you see, I’ve sung so much today that I’m about to lose my voice. I can’t sing anymore’. She is having none of my defenses. ‘I really want to hear you belt it out. Do it for us, we want to hear’. Well OK, then. I don’t really think I have a choice in the matter. ‘OK, I’ll sing one more, a powerful one, just for you Sevilla.’ I go find Mark and tell him. ‘We’re going to do Naked.’ He looks surprised but delighted. ‘Tell them, we’re doing one more’, and Mark goes up to the musicians table to see about us doing one more. But just as he is walking up there, there’s this guy that asks them to do a song and he starts singing a traditional Irish trad song. We wait our turn, and I make sure to tell the bar manager that we’ll be doing one more so he won’t miss it. 

Mark:

I would never normally do this. Be invited to play a song with people, do my thing, then go and ask if I could do more. But this is not a normal situation. It’s punters who are doing the demanding and I make this clear to Pat, saying, ‘I’m sorry mate. I don’t really care, but we aren’t being given a choice here. People are demanding we do more. Could we please come back in?’ He laughs and offers me his guitar. Oh, double bonus. Unlike the guitar I used earlier, this one has a strap on it, meaning I’m able to play standing up which is how we usually do it.

Maja:

After we sit down at our seats at the musicians table I can actually see the people at the bar communicating in a way that seems like they’re anticipating our next song. Jerry calls people to him, and I can see the rumor spreading. As the Irishman finishes his eight minutes long song, Mark gets to borrow Pat’s guitar, and I take my place up on a chair, effectively creating a stage for myself. Mark stands close to me, and I turn towards the bar. 

‘Hello everyone, we are The Diaries. This is our pre warmup gig for the warmup gig we have here on Friday. We have one more song to perform to you tonight. This one is dedicated to you, Sevilla. ‘I Like You (Better When You’re Naked)’’. The crowd cheers, and we start. Hard. I sing loud, standing on the chair. Moving with my whole body. Looking at the audience. There’s no doubt only complete confidence. I own this place. You will look at me. You will love hearing this. I absolutely belt out the song. Powerfully. There’s no amplification, but everyone hears every single word I sing. You can feel how they are sucked into the moment, completely taken back by the performance. Everyone looks at me, and I am loving it. As the song cheekily ends with ‘I like you better when you’re naked’, me and Mark go quiet and the room absolutely explodes into applause. ‘Thank you so much’, I call out to the audience feeling like a rockstar. As I step off the chair I tell the audience, ‘Here you have it. That’s for all of you that are calling me shy’. I see how the people around me are shocked. They don’t expect me to say something that extreme, but it feels so nice. I got so tired of them thinking I couldn’t sing with power just because the first songs were slow. It’s a little bit of an in your face moment, which I completely deserve. 

This is awesome. People are loving it. I can see how they’re shocked and everyone’s attitudes have changed. From being all like: ‘What you’re doing is impossible’, to treating me with respect. It’s amazing. The greatest change in attitude I see from the musicians. They don’t seem to know what they just saw. It’s like they can’t process it. 

So. If we weren’t in the musicians group already, we certainly are now. Both of us.

I am a rockstar tonight.

Mark:

This does not happen. Original songs played during cover sets mostly get ignored, just less actually cheered. But even when they do, a reaction like this? No. That really doesn’t happen. To be asked for more? Does not happen at all. To have a third demanded? Actually demanded? Does. Not. Happen. This has been an incredible first experience of our own songs fully out there in public. A great confidence boost for myself and for Maja as she prepares to front a project for the first time in her life. And a confidence boost for our music and performances in general. I think you could say we feel ready for Friday now. 

We’ve heard quite a few pieces of advice recently about what we’re about to do. A guy we met a few weeks ago almost begged us not to try to play our own songs in this town. ‘They’ll throw things at you,’ he said.

Pat and Colm, who we met last week. Full of well meaning and heartfelt advice. Colm almost pleading with us not to do what we were planning to do. ‘I really really advise you to throw some covers in when you play there,’ he said in the car as Pat was giving us a lift home. I was emphatic. ‘No. It will be all originals.’ I think inside his mind he threw his hands in the air and gave up. ‘They’ll learn,’ he may well have been thinking.

Pat had his say in the same conversation. ‘Originals? No-one wants to know. All they want is nursery rhymes for adults. That’s what playing covers is and that’s what they want.’ Here, I threw my own two bob into it, even as I was defiantly resisting, just to let them know that I knew exactly where they were coming from. ‘John Lennon himself could come back from the dead, write a song for you and you could go play it in a bar and no-one would care.’ Pat and Colm nod knowingly. Yes. It’s exactly like that. Their demeanour screams, ‘You see. You get it. So don’t do it.’

After what’s just happened here tonight, no-one’s telling us to do covers anymore. This performance is also the catalyst for me and Maja to look at each other and say, ‘Screw it. Let’s do our full set as planned.’

Day two, the tour diaries prologue

Thursday November 4

Maja:

Yesterday was amazing. But I really went overboard with my voice so I have to rest it as much as possible today, so today I’m as silent as I can possibly be. We even do a silent rehearsal where Mark plays the guitar and we just sing the song in our heads. I am trying to memorise all of the lyrics. I know them somewhat by now, but I am a bit afraid of forgetting them.

Mark:

After this we go through the song ideas we’ve accumulated in our Cubase recording notes section. This takes almost two hours and we uncover and rediscover quite a few things we really quite like, including a song tentatively called Hanging In The Place, and another that could be called Shine, or something.

We talk through a few ideas over dinner, and then generally hang out, and then, as the clock ticks past midnight, Hanging In The Place suddenly starts to take shape as we each add lyrical ideas until we have a pretty cool A Capella song which we’re both singing. I make the crazy suggestion of performing this tomorrow and Maja does the crazy thing of agreeing. So that’s it. In the set it goes.

It’s the most scarcely worded song I’ve ever been involved in writing. Apart from the chorus, it has just 22 words and one of them is sung eight times. I ‘write’ the first verse with just the word Hello. ‘Oh, says Maja. A one letter verse. Cool.’ It is of course a slip, but I take up the challenge and proceed to rise to it, ‘writing’ a third verse of just I. With a little cheating ‘I’m’ to finish. One of the things songwriters often talk of is the challenge of writing a one chord song. I don’t think the one word verse gets nearly enough attention.

Now we have a chat about exactly what we’re going to do when we hit the stage. How much talk, and when? Everything’s up for grabs, but we do make one solid decision which is that we will not talk before the first song. No introductory preamble. People just want you to get on with it. We also decide we won’t talk after it. Just straight into the next one. 

Maja:

Mark wants to go to an event about the history of town today, but I won’t go. 

Mark:

It’s not just a talk about the history of the town. It’s a story of the history of the town from the Goodbody perspective. Ahhh. You see now. No? OK. We live in the house that used to be lived in by the manager of the mill. Or something like that. And our whole back garden is the mill works. The two big ruined buildings, the courtyard where trucks used to come out, complete with those big industrial garden gate doors. And the river at the end of it all. It was all constructed and run by the Goodbody family. We live in it, so tonight’s talk is literally about what’s in our back garden. Yes. I really want to go. But…

Maja:

My voice is too weak and I want to be at home. If we’re out tonight, someone might want us to perform, and I am not ready for that. I need to save myself for tomorrow. Mark reluctantly agrees that this is the best plan and we have a nice night staying in together. 

And as we do, enjoying some celebratory whiskey at two o’clock in the morning, magic strikes us. A new song is born. We call it Bang Bang, and it goes in the set tomorrow.  

Mark:

To be fair, Maja’s all up for me going out on my own. I wouldn’t massively be against that myself, but tonight it just doesn’t quite fit. So yeah. We stay in. And bang bang happens. It’s the name of the song!!

Day three, the tour diaries prologue

Friday November 5

Mark:

My first ever rehearsal in bed. And the firstest band related thing I’ve ever done in my life. It happens as soon as I open my eyes so this record will not be broken. Unless someone uses my hands to play percussion while I’m asleep. Come to think of it, maybe they have. Maja’s already awake and as soon as she sees my eyes open she gently starts to sing our new song, which she will follow up by announcing it is now titled Bang Bang. And of course I join in. This song is an A capella with both of us singing.

And this is how we begin the day of our first gig. With our first and only rehearsal of the day and we’ve not even got up yet.

Maja:

I love that. I am getting so many of your firsts!

Mark:

Yes you most definitely are. And given I’ve never been on an actual international musical tour, I feel you’ll be getting a whole lot more of them. Oh, and people, this is actually me and Maja talking to each other in here right now. She’s in Sweden and I’m home alone in London. And Maja wrote this tonight and we’re putting it out tonight, so this is pretty much real time communication.

Maja:

You’ve been around for so much longer than I have, but I still manage to snatch all these little gems that I call our firsts. And yes, challenge accepted. I will soon play percussion with you when you’re asleep. I’m deciding that no-one has done that yet, so I’m going to! It’s mine!

Mark:

Oh no. I think I’ve made a terrible mistake.

As we get into the day, Maja is supremely confident. So much so that I actually find it a little unsettling, nervous that she might have gone a little into the complacent column. I mention none of this because I don’t want to make her nervous, and this confidence is wonderful to see. The first she heard of it was when she read that last sentence you just read. So you are literally on the same page.

Maja:

I can’t not react to that, can I? No. Seriously? Did you really find my behaviour unsettling? 

Mark:

Yes.

Maja:

Wow. That’s news to me. But yeah, I feel absolutely no nervousness towards performing. I can’t even tell you why, I just feel extremely confident. I’m not complacent, I just don’t feel nervous. I feel like I could perform in a stadium without being afraid. 

Mark: 

Working ourselves into the day, we have a look at my to do list for while Maja is away.

I have just the best to do list ever. It looks like this. 

song writing – which Maja absolutely insists goes top of priorities. 

Diary writing

Record guitar tracks for everything we have so that Maja can practice over the next three weeks.

Pitching for:

A support tour with an established act

Agents for The Diaries book(s)

Publishers for the same

Then pitching for this new idea.

The Tour Diary

This is something we believe could be a proposition for publications of various types, both on and offline, and something we think such businesses would pay for. We also think that if we stick to entities which are not in competition with each other, we can write essentially the same piece each week, or whatever is required, and get paid for it from each publication. It’s an idea.

Maja:

I’m quite happy with the list that’s finally starting to take shape. Mark really has enough to do to take the time of a full time job. Nah, he has way much more to do. As for me, I really wish I could be more active in this thing right now, but I am going to Sweden to have surgery. I have a ganglion on my wrist, which is pressing on a nerve and hurts so I’m getting it cut out, and during that time I am going to hang out at my mum’s house. So it’s going to be hard for me to focus on the project, but I’ll do my best during the time I get. I won’t really be able to write that much, since I will be effectively one armed for the majority of the visit. For me, it’s going to be surgery and family and dog time. Quite nice. So I’m going to focus on that, and Mark will be doing a lot from his side. The next time we will meet each other will probably be on our European Tour. Starting, maybe in Berlin? Let’s see what happens.

Somewhere in the afternoon I start to pack. I’m effectively packing for an European tour which I don’t know when I’m getting back from. I mainly have to make sure that all clothing is clothing I feel confident in, and only things that I would like to wear performing or in photographs and videos. And also, a couple of pajamas to sleep in. Clothing, make-up, and who’s a serious musician if you’re not having a significant part of your bag filled with music equipment? Microphones, leads, interface and small bits and pieces. Yeah, I think I’m somewhat set. I’m ready. We’re going on tour, and no, I haven’t played my first gig yet. That’s next now.

Mark:

We’ve spent the past few days mildly avoiding the elephant in the room that Maja’s leaving Ireland the day after the show and we won’t see each other for at least three weeks. But we haven’t been able to help escape the quite mad narrative fact that we will be playing our first gig on Maja’s last full day in Ireland before the tour.

With that, she now starts packing. A little while later I say, ‘I’ve just realised. You’re packing for the European tour.’ ‘Yes, I know,’ she replies. ‘I’ve been very well aware of that. It’s crazy.’ And she has still never played a gig in her life.

That of course is about to change. By the time 8 O’Clock comes round we’ve got our gear together and are ready to leave. The Trap is about five minutes’ walk away from us so we’re in with plenty of time to set up and soundcheck.

While we’re setting up, quite a few curious looks are coming our way. I see this as an excuse to introduce ourselves by going up to people, explaining what’s happening and giving them a card. The first person I walk up to reacts to my pleasantries with, ‘Will you just get on with it and play some music?’ Oh dear. Without losing my friend face, I explain to him that yes, while we still are setting up, we’re not due to start until 9pm anyway. It is now 8:20. I choose not to tell Maja of this mildly hostile exchange. Whenever you’re soundchecking or setting up, it’s not at all unheard of for a drunk person or two to say words along the lines of, ‘Get on with it.’ It really doesn’t make you particularly motivated to entertain them to be fair.

Maja hasn’t flinched. Hasn’t shown the slightest sign of blinking. Carry on. Get through the song and carry on. She was right. She really wasn’t nervous. She truly was ready. She’s come in here tonight like she owns the place and really, if you’re going to do your own songs to any kind of audience really, that’s the attitude you need to have. I’m in charge here and that’s the end of it. She is, and it’s all eyes on Maja.

Maja:

The second song feels easier. I’m totally in it. I have the lyrics on a music stand out of sight of the audience in case I lose my place in the song, but I realise that it’s really hard to change pages. I just take the previous song and toss it on the floor. Good enough. We barely allow any time between the two first songs, and to me A Listing disappears almost as quickly as we started it. As the song ends I realise the number of phones that have appeared. The cheer is deafening. I can’t really think straight, but I am good at working under pressure. Mark says ‘Thank you, thank you so much’, and I realise that I need to speak.

Mark:

When we finish: Mad. Just loud, high pitched. An original band in coverband territory. This isn’t supposed to happen. They’re with us all the way now and Maja is feeling it. It’s on. She’s ready to talk and gives the shortest of speeches to mention that this is our last gig before touring, and to introduce the next song, pausing before the bracket. I Like You (Better When You’re Naked), a song we started writing sitting at our kitchen table one night after Maja just came out with those exact words.

Maja:

‘Thank you so much everyone. We are The Diaries. This is our warm up gig for our European tour. Next stop, Berlin.’ Then, slightly out of breath: ‘This next song, we call: I Like You Better When You’re Naked.’ I wish I could show you the stunned looks on the audience’s faces. It’s priceless. I’m taking a sip of water, and use that short moment to really observe the audience. I couldn’t tell you how many people were here when we started, but it is definitely more now. I think the young guys from the back bar are starting to emerge as well. The phones are out. I’m loving it. And this song is really fun to perform. I won’t say fun to sing anymore, it’s fun to perform. A performance to me is so much more. I have the room wrapped around my little finger. 

Mark:

Oh man it’s on. After the adrenaline packed near disaster of Smile, which could have seen us finished before we really started, and the full throated support of A Listing, we feel we have this now. Maja’s body language throughout has shown that she never had a doubt and I think I can claim the same. We have not backed down. Not an inch. Not for a second. And now here we are. Naked just hits. It just hits. By now, the room is full of people pointing their phones at us, recording us. This level of reaction? An originals act in coverband territory? Come on. This does not happen. An original band in original band territory playing their first gig? Even there, this level of reaction does not happen. We thought the first two songs had caused eruptions. They were just warm ups for what follows Naked. Then we drop the ball.

Maja:

I had the room wrapped around my finger. I owned the room. Now it feels like no-one is listening anymore. I mean yeah, it is disappointing to see the audience right now, but I don’t really care. I can’t stop half way through a song, and if anyone is enjoying it, even one, I need to do my absolute best. Well maybe no-one is listening. It feels that way as the audience starts to creep back to their corners and beers. Even if the ball is dropped, even if they are going to boo afterwards, I need to finish this song. Finish it so we can lead into the next one. I close my eyes to try to feel the delicateness of the song a bit more. This song is all about feel. We performed this to a friend once, after showing some of our more upbeat material. You know what he did? He took a piss. He turned his back to us as I was singing and took a piss. Well, seeing that we just left. He is no friend of ours anymore. That’s a line crossed. Or more of a wall broken down with a bulldozer of disrespect. So I know that this song can be a hit or miss, and it is definitely missing today even though it hit two days ago. But dare I say we’re having a little bit of a success anyway. There’s this guy in the back with his hands in the air waving along to the music. As soon as I finish it, I let those last notes slowly die out and there’s applause. People are still cheering at us. ‘Thank you very much. Next song is called Freefall’.

Freefall feels so good to sing. It just does. There’s this delicateness in the beginning that completely matches the slowness of Breakthrough, but it is fierce. The language and melody are just strong. In the beginning it’s delicate but then it just cuts through. ‘These words are cutting far too deep, keep crawling at me in my sleep.’ Just yes. And that crawling is my little rewrite. This song just hits me so hard every time I sing it and I love performing it, which makes it a good choice to have after a possible miss. Because I won’t falter one step. I can totally just sing this song for myself, and that is going to make the audience adore me. I wanna be adored. And just by doing this, I am slowly picking the ball back up again. People are coming back out, and I have the attention once again. 

‘Thank you very much. I always wondered, what can you really be?’ I’m making this up on the spot. ‘What would you be? What if you were a door? Or a song?’ Mark fills in, telling me, ‘I think you’re a song tonight.’ ‘Yeah, I think I’m a song as well. That’s fitting for tonight. This next song is about that. It’s called All That I Can Be.’

Mark:

It’s only afterwards that we think maybe we shouldn’t have done this, but no-one ever made a mistake in hindsight. If we had chosen not to play Breakthrough we might have kicked ourselves for bottling it. But maybe to play a slowie after such a big hit of a fastie, maybe not the best of ideas. But then, maybe we didn’t think Naked would land in such a big way. But here we are. Breakthrough is a kind of a break and I get the feeling a few people are into it and having a nice groove. The bar all starts to get a bit chatty again. OK. That’s fine. I guess they’re happy to have a chance to get back to a little talk for a while. Then Freefall after that. I like the way this song starts slow and builds, fitting domino like into Breakthrough. But it’s another slow section people have to wait through and I can’t help thinking we’re slightly losing them after doing so well to have got them. Freefall is a really weird song for me. It’s a very old one and a song I’ve always put way down my own list. But it’s almost like the runt that finds its own power to beat the whole litter. It’s just kept being there. Way back when, being asked to do a radio slot, my band said Freefall was the one. Putting together a set for the next lineup of that band. Freefall was everyone’s choice. It wasn’t mine. Maja had my whole lifetime of songs to listen to. Freefall made it into the final selection. Then when we came to record, we went for Naked first. Maja’s next call? Yep. You guessed it. It just keeps being there. Whatever this thing is, it’s grown a will and a power well beyond my control. If I’d had my way it would never have been heard again past the first year of its existence. But here it is, almost two decades later still being picked above everything. You can’t do anything but stand aside when that starts happening to your own songs. 

So now it’s here now. It doesn’t get the best of reactions to be fair, but by the end we can see they’re still with us. Onto All That I Can Be and Wide Blue Yonder, a song we have a lot of faith in. Neither really fully hits anywhere near the first three, but Maja hasn’t been put off her stride one bit tonight. She’s a powerhouse tonight, her body language almost raging at the audience even as the songs drip feelgood factor. She’s selling them like they cannot be refused. And they are not being refused. The whoops and cheers of the first three songs haven’t quite happened again and I really think we’ve made a mistake with the order. But then, to not play Breakthrough would have felt like bottling it. We’ll take these lessons. Bottom line is, seven songs in and they’re still onside. I would have taken just that before we started tonight.

Maja:

Neither All That I Can Be nor Wide Blue Yonder got a huge reaction, but they are good songs and they got polite reactions. Which is fine. It feels like the audience is starting to lose focus, and they are getting used to the set we’re having. So it is time for us to stir it up with the biggest risk of tonight. Bang Bang. Written 18 hours ago, and no, I can’t quite recall the melody. Mark puts down his guitar and we start off with the first chorus together, the song starts directly with a chorus. As the chorus is about to end I turn my microphone off, put it down and start to walk around the pub singing the first verse. ‘Hello, hello, hello.’ I watch the people, kinda saying hello to them, letting the people close to me hear my voice as Mark is the only one amplified. I’m just dancing around singing, and so many people are filming me. The next chorus starts and I stay on the floor, preparing for the cool part that comes in verse two. I’m putting my hands into the pistol sign dancing bang bang, but the sound doesn’t come. Mark has completely forgotten how it goes, and he can’t hear me. Oh well, it must look really funny I think as I continue my silly soundless dance, singing bang bang myself. He soon improvises something and I continue to dance and sing ‘Walking through the tables a little unstable bang bang.’ Yeah. That’s it. The melody is slightly wrong, but it is OK. As I join him back for the last verse and chorus it feels like we did it. Now it is just the last song. There’s a loud cheer and we start our song All Kinds Of Wonderful.

Mark:

If we thought we were taking a risk on Bang Bang before we come here, it gets even riskier during Wide Blue Yonder. All I could think of was what was coming next and I just couldn’t remember the rhythm. So I lost focus and made a few mistakes in Wide as well, which we got away with, but they were there. Now we start Bang Bang and I still haven’t quite got it fully in my bones yet. It gets no introduction. Wide finishes and I click my fingers to a beat. We’re doing this A Capella and Maja is going to go out there among the audience, alone. While I stay on the stage, guitarless and alone. And with the second verse just totally gone from my mind.

But there she is. Out there, completely giving it. We really had no idea how this would go, but it’s going and Maja is owning the bar and her new public while I do my own gentle thing back here. We get to the second verse and I still don’t have it. So I just do. Something. Just keep it going. I think it’s horrendous and I will spend the next day still beating myself up about it. Like a goalkeeper who played great in a 4-1 victory but who can’t let go of the one goal that was totally his fault. But, fast forward and I see a recording of it. It really isn’t so bad at all. It even works. We got away with that one. Goal chalked off by VAR review. 4-0.


Even in the moment I feel we’ve got away with something. We were so uncertain about this one that we’d gone for just launching straight into the next song without a break, which is me pounding a down picking beat before Maja comes in when she’s ready. This results in the very strange but satisfying situation of being deep into the intro of a song while the audience is still full on cheering for the last one. Well, I guess that went OK then.

We’re now into our last song. All Kinds Of Wonderful. Another new one from Clara that me and Maja have punched and beaten into shape. One single line had us beat for two days until Maja bounded into the bathroom while I was having a shower to declare that she’d nailed it. She had.

Maja:

Performing All Kinds of Wonderful it’s like I just can’t connect with it. It feels flat, it feels just, boring almost. The attention we’re getting is devastatingly small. It just misses. That’s such a disappointment. The big one we’d saved for last. It feels like it deserves more attention, but yeah I get it. The performance is probably not doing the song any favours. I think it is a bit too poppy maybe. Maybe we can make it feel better in the future, maybe it can be just that the key is wrong, I don’t know. It needs to feel bigger. But I can’t do anything about it right now, but trying my best with what we got. So we do. As we finish, there’s almost no applause. 

‘Thank you very much guys, that was our last song. We are The Diaries.’ I finish off and take a sip of water. People are turning around confused.

Mark:

The reaction to us finishing this is a bit underwhelming. A little disappointing. We chose this as the show closer because we had so much faith in it and now everything feels a little flat. Oh well. We’ve made it this far and that really means a lot. I start to put the guitar down. Then, as I’m putting the guitar down, it begins.

More. More. More. But not just that. It feels like the whole bar is calling for Naked. An original act playing a coverband bar. Getting a rapturous encore, and a unanimous call for one song. Come on. This does not happen.

Maja:

They just started. Almost like a chant. More, more, more. People are shouting, and they want to hear the song Naked. Wow. This feels amazing. ‘Thank you so much everyone, we’ll do one more. This is I Like You Better When You’re Naked!’ And off we go. I’m sweating, my voice is beginning to break but I’m on the home run now. This is the last stretch and I am enjoying it to its fullest. I go all in, with power and all the cheekiness I can muster. I wish the audience was bigger. I am absolutely loving it.

After the cheeky ending where we both shout: ‘I like you better when you’re NAKED,’ the pub just explodes in applause and cheering and whooping. I feel like a rockstar. I am a rockstar. Again there are shouts for more. Demands. But we have to decline. I give Mark a victory kiss and we start to turn the equipment off and then we’re dragged around the different groups of the audience as people praise us. Well, of course there’s that drunk asshole that keeps asking me to get naked just because of that song, but apart from that there’s just a lot of praise. People tell us that we’re going to be huge. We sign autographs, and there’s requests to take selfies with us. After the first round of attention has settled down we order a beer. ‘Well done tonight Mark. We owned this place tonight.’

Well I’ve never done a gig before, but I don’t think this happens to everyone. Maybe it does, what do I know?

Mark:

Oh wow. OK. After all that, after all the uncertainty, with the, we have them, we don’t, we do, we don’t, we’re getting an encore. But not just that. There’s one particular song the whole place wants again. So we do it. And just like that we have them again. Totally. The place goes mad and some are even singing along to the chorus. We finish and again, there are calls for more and more. I look up at Maja. We really don’t have more. At least, not anything that can top that. And anyway, ‘Leave ‘em shouting for more,’ I say. Yep. We agree. We’re done. 

We make our way straight out into the bar. Past well wishing audience members and in among the few people we’ve got to know in here. But I get called away, and Maja does too. People just want to talk to us now.

The guys who call me over are emphatic. They want autographs. And more. They want us to sign stuff to put up over the back of the bar to show we were here. One of the guys even asks for some kind of memorabilia to display in the bar. I have no idea what that would be. I have no idea if the management would want anything and I’m not going to offer. That would just be a bit too forward. They introduce themselves to me as Albert, Steve and Joe. And they nod as Albert says, ‘You guys are going to be huge, and I want people to know you started in Clara.’ What the hell are you supposed to say to that? I just write the messages and sign the autographs. Then I take the beermats I was given over to a totally disbelieving Maja who signs the first autographs of her life. At the end of the first gig of her life. Singing originals.

Maja? What can I say? First ever gig and you’ve got two encore calls and you’re signing autographs. This. Does. Not. Happen. You are a rockstar. And I love you.

Maja:

This was amazing. I am a rockstar now. And so are you. 

I think I stole some more of you firsts tonight.

Day four, the tour diaries prologue

Saturday November 6

Maja:

We got home late last night, and maybe went to bed at around 2 AM, so my body feels destroyed as I open up my eyes at 6 in the morning. Off to a shower and then to the airport with the first train. Time is scarce, so Mark is escorting me to the airport in case I miss my flight. We make some chicken to eat on the train, and as we’re messing around with the packing Mark asks me, ‘We left stuff at the venue last night, right?’ ‘No we didn’t.’ Our PA and the trolley it was on are nowhere to be seen. Oh no. I am already dressed so I go outside to see if it is around here. As I trace our steps back to the bar, I find it. It’s neatly put towards our garden entry so it is as protected from rain as it could be. Thank you so much, whoever put it here. And what a relief as I drag it back home. 

We’re really short on time. We make the first train, where we get to have some tired celebratory chat until we fall asleep leaning against each other. It’s really cosy, and I am going to miss Mark so much it’s untrue. I wish I didn’t have to go, but reality is reality and I need to go. As we reach the airport we need to run to the check-in counter, where I just about made it before they closed. Before I leave him at the security check we look at each other and say, ‘Goodbye rockstar. See you in Berlin.’

Mark:

Yes. Goodbye rockstar. See you in Berlin.

Some of the coolest words I’ve ever said or heard.

Once I’ve made sure Maja is through and in line to board the plane – possibly the quickest I’ve ever seen anyone do that from terminal entry to line by the way – I get the bus back to the station. I have no intention of hanging around Dublin. I’m just going to get back home. Arriving at the station, I see the next train isn’t for another hour and a half. Oh bum. Oh, but there’s a big Premierleague soccer game on today that starts in an hour or so. New plan. I walk back into town and find a place to watch that.

On the way, walking along the River Liffey, I have a chat with Rick who’s curious about how last night went. When I tell him, his reaction is, ‘That is phenomenal.’ I see people playing original songs in bars all the time. No-one cares. It’s ridiculous that you got that reaction.’

Getting back home and me and Maja talk on the phone. We agree that we have a whole new confidence now about what we can do in Berlin and beyond. And a whole new confidence of being able to pitch to tours and agents. You can believe in your songs or your product all you want, but until you take it out to market or put it in front of people, you just don’t know. We went into a very tough arena last night and the thing just hit. You really do have to take something out of that. And we’re taking it all the way to Berlin.

The Berlin Diary, Day minus one

Tuesday November 30

Mark:

Off we go into the unknown. Both of us leave at exactly the same time. Kinda. The landlord picks me up at 11:30 as arranged and off to the airport with my meticulously packed bags filled with leads and microphones and other bits of performing equipment. And I just knew it. I knew I would get totally stopped by security and examined. First bag, the guy says, we’ve stopped this one. ‘Oh, I knew this would happen.’ ‘You did?’ ‘Yes. Absolutely.’ ‘So you know we found a knife in your bag?’ ‘Oh. Oh!!’ I remember now. And I’m trying to take the bag off the guy, saying I know where it is and it’s OK, and he’s saying, it’s not OK and no you don’t have it. We have it. Oh dear. I’m trying to tell him it’s OK and he’s giving me the total, ‘stay back’ treatment. He digs in and finds a carrier bag and I tell him it’s OK, just rip the thing open. He gives me a look that says, ‘Quiet you. You’re in trouble here boy,’ but then does indeed rip the bag open. The next look on his face, I’m not sure if it’s relief or disappointment. I really want to think it’s disappointment. As he pulls out the table knife I’d forgotten about that I’d packed to make sandwiches on the way. That I’d forgotten to do. ‘Oh,’ he says. Yep. That’s disappointment written all over his face by the way. ‘It’s a table knife.’ Yep. He’s not getting his James Bond moment with me, or whatever he thought he was going to get. ‘That’s OK,’ he says, and puts it back. I’m free to go. Almost. Now I get called over by someone else who’s just checked the other bag, this one which is full to capacity with all the leads, microphones and everything else. ‘I’m going to have to unpack this bag to check it,’ she says. And proceeds to break my heart as she rips it all apart. ‘How the hell did you manage to get all this in here?’ she asks. ‘I have no idea but I’m about to have to start to manage it all over again.’ Which is how I end up on the airport floor surrounded by musical detritus and empty bags which I’m now trying to remake. Yes, I get it done and I’m in. Plane time. Off to Berlin.

And this is where we’re leaving at exactly the same time. My takeoff time is 3pm. Just as that happens, Maja is setting off on her drive to the Swedish coast to get the ferry that will take her to Gdansk in Poland from where she will begin her epic drive to Berlin at sometime around midday tomorrow. My job now is to get on the ground, get us set up at the hostel, and then tomorrow, go hunting for a free parking space, or at least some parking space, so that Maja has somewhere to actually drive to when she arrives in the city.

As for my own arrival, I land, find the airport train station, and within two minutes, a train is leaving for Warshauer Platz, the exact station for our hostel. Major result. Out of the station and I’m checked in and in our room within 15 minutes. I’ve not written about it but the past few days have been an absolute flurry of house and packing activity as I’ve organised everything and cleaned everything so that it could all be left for a while. It’s been quite the project. Multiples bigger than I possibly imagined, and with the arrival now, possibly after all the nervous energy accompanying such a trip and the preparations for it, I’m seriously exhausted. But anyway, Maja had already asked me not to go out and experience Berlin without her. This is something we’re going to do together and I’m in no shape for a mad night out anyway. I settle in for my own private movie night.

Maja:

It’s traveling time. Finally. I have had a wonderful time with my parents and dog, which was very personally necessary for me, but now it is time to go start my next adventure. And I don’t know when I’ll be back. It is with conflicting feelings that I pack my bags and load them into the car. I’m driving an hour to the ferry that goes from Nynäshamn to Gdansk. Well there I check in and have a room for myself. Isn’t it amazing to be able to travel by sleeping? I’m fascinated by that concept. It’s just so much better than flight when you just have to stress, and you can bring your car. Once on board the ship I locate the piano bar where my phone can receive internet, so I sit there and use the time to update the Diaries. It’s wonderful to sit here and listen to the piano while writing. I haven’t really been able to get to it as much as I wanted, and I’ve only just been able to somewhat start using my hand again. It’s so much easier to write with two hands. 

The Berlin Diary, Day zero

Wednesday December 1

Mark:

I have one job today. One really easy job, then I can chill for the rest of the day. Maybe get some writing done. And then see Maja tonight as I welcome her to Berlin. Three weeks after we said goodbye at Dublin airport. This job is to go out and find a free parking space for her to drive to. I’ve researched this and have seen that where we’re staying is right at the edge of paid parking. We can’t assume she can just find a parking space outside the zone as they might be really busy. So all I have to do is walk down the road and find areas that aren’t used so much, then it’s job done. It’s pretty cold so I really want to just nip out, confirm all is good then quickly retreat to the hostel. Possibly even back to bed for a while before lazily getting round to some writing when I feel like it. Maja’s due here around 7-8pm so I have absolutely loads of time.

This is how it actually plays out. I quickly find ‘free’ parking but it seems to be residents’s parking because I soon see a few cars have been clamped. And closer inspection shows me that all the unclamped cars are displaying some kind of green sticker. Oh. Not here then. Let’s walk a little further. Yep. I just keep seeing the same thing. So I guess these areas are free, so to speak, but only for residents who have this special green permit. Not at all what we’re looking for. I’ve heard about free parking lots so I decide I now have to ditch the street idea and go looking for them. 

I get on google maps and find a few and make myself a little route of them. It’s raining now. The temperature has dropped considerably and I’m starting to feel just a little chill through my three layers but I’m kinda OK. It’s all well and good knowing these areas exist. But again, I really do need to go there just to make sure they’re not wildly oversubscribed, or anything else. I brace myself and set off on the walk to the first one, a few kilometres away from where I am now. I get there and this ‘free’ parking space is a supermarket carpark, free as long as you’re doing your shopping. Balls. Let’s go to the next one. Another few kilometres away. Balls. The same thing. And again. And again. By this time, I’ve been walking five or six hours and Maja’s going to arrive soon. I have time to check out one more. There is another place I knew about this morning but it’s way out and I never really had it as an option, but it might have to be now but there’s no time to get out there and back by the time Maja arrives. Not even on the public transport. Or at least, I’m not going to risk that as I have no idea how it works yet, or even if it will go anywhere near the place in question. So I go and check this one last place out, thinking I really could do with this one working. And yep. Another supermarket. Balls, balls and balls. Sorry Maja. I couldn’t possibly have done more and I’ve failed. So now to call the hostel, which I know has parking available at a tenner a night. But no answer. So I have to get myself back there as quickly as possible and hope they can accommodate us. For this I manage to work out how the trams work and am mercifully able to save my legs for the journey back. Once on a tram, and so sitting in a warm place for the first time in eight hours, I check my route on an app which I know is always a few kilometres short for long walks. Damn. It’s clocked me at 18 kilometres which means I’ve done at least 20, and most likely one or two more. For no result. Not at all what I was planning for today. On the way back Maja calls, sympathises with my fruitless, heartbreaking quest, although she’s got problems of her own in destructively snowy Poland right now. I’m really glad that she’s not too put out by what I haven’t found and says yeah, sure. Let’s pay for the hostel and sort this out in a day or two. Then she makes a request that she’d really like to get on. She was talking about Wiener Schnitzel while we were still both in Ireland and now she’d really like to find such a place where we could have dinner together tonight. OK. I’ll get on it. 

Maja:

At 12 sharp the cars are able to leave the ferry. And I’m off on my own driving in a country I’ve never ever been to. I have my phone GPS on and follow the route going directly west almost reaching the shoreline of Poland and then it’ll go almost directly south. It’s supposed to take 6 hours and 38 minutes. Perfect. My mum’s been warning me about a snowstorm that’s been in southern Sweden, where it apparently snowed about 50 cm in the matter of only a couple of hours. I’ll have to watch out so I don’t get snowed in somewhere. As I drive through the Polish countryside, for the first time in my life I receive a text message from a number that I don’t recognise warning me about strong winds and snowfall possibly disrupting traffic. It’s unusual and quite impressive that they send out those things on text messages nowadays. I need to stop after a while and use the restroom, so I park at a little village in the middle of nowhere, and walk into the supermarket and ask one of the staff, ‘Excuse me, can I use the restroom?’ I’m met with total incomprehension. She starts talking to someone else, looking at me and it’s clear to see that they don’t speak any English at all. I gesture that I need to pee and say ‘Toilet.’ That seems to have done the trick. I get the harsh answer ‘Nyet.’ Balls. But they’re still talking and one girl seems to type something on her phone. She then shows me google translate that says ‘There’s a restroom next to the church,’ and points in a direction. OK, thank you very much. I buy some drinks and snacks and start walking in that direction. There is a huge church there, which I run around, but there’s no toilet or doors that look possible to open. Balls again. I’m in a hurry since I want to finish as much of the drive as possible before nightfall, and that’s about 4pm. I’d better continue on my way. I drive another three hours before I stop by a rest area by the highway. It’s pitch dark outside and the wind is so strong it feels like I’m going to blow away. It’s icy, cold and dark and I’m alone in the middle of nowhere far from home. Oh well, I guess that’s just how it is on the road. There’s going to be a lot of this. Well, back in the car and I finish the drive, arriving at the hostel in Berlin at 8 PM sharp. I call Mark and in a couple of minutes he comes outside. What strikes me is how short he is. I can forget these things. And how blond he is. He is BLONDE now, which feels so unfamiliar. I don’t know why I react so strongly, but it is amazing to meet him as we both explode in the happiest of smiles. Oh how I’ve missed him.

I’ve asked him to find us a good wienerschnitzel place for our celebratory dinner and after leaving my bags at the hostel we go to a really nice restaurant ordering wienerschnitzel. ‘Cheers, Mark. To our European tour, and to us!’

Mark:

Yes I am blonde now and Maja saw me through the process from Sweden so I have no idea what that’s all about. I guess that’s what an eight hour drive through the snow in Poland with no toilet breaks can do to a person. And yes, it is amazing and actually a tiny bit surreal to see her after three weeks apart. But we actually don’t have too much time to dwell in the street because her running car is right in the middle of the road and Maja makes it very clear she wants to be totally finished with the car and out of it as soon as possible so can we please go to the car park space. We do that, then back to the hostel for a quick bit of acclimatisation, then yes, it’s off to the wonderful restaurant I found which absolutely matches Maja’s requirements to the letter. She’s mystified as to how the hell I found it. Well, I google-mapped wienerschnitzel places, then went out and visited the few I found that were within walking distance and decided this was the best one. The walking part wasn’t the best fun, and I really hesitated, given my mildly wrecked state after 20 or so kilometres looking for a parking space. But then I thought of Maja struggling through the Polish snow for so long to get here, and thought I really had to, literally, go the extra mile. As a result, I was able to confirm and be totally confident in the wonderful place I introduced her to. It was absolutely worth it and I wouldn’t have had it any other way. For the record, it was Cafe Restaurant Jolesch in Freidrichshain-Kreuzberg.

Maja:

I am very happy you went the extra mile for me. That’s adorable. Thank you.

Mark:

As we talk, it becomes clear that all those other miles before that last extra one one weren’t at all necessary. Maja did actually tell me last week about the low emissions car sticker she had acquired – a green thing with a big number 4 printed in it – that allowed us to park in so many of the places that I walked right past thinking they were a no-no. She also sent me a picture of it, along with a document detailing parking rights contained within ownership. It dawns on me now that my dismissal of all those parking spaces was mostly based on assumption; in any area, as soon as I saw clamped vehicles, my two plus two equalled these spaces being for residents rather than simply free spaces for anyone with the low emissions permission. It’s also true that we were both dealing with a lot of little jobs and details last week and I’m making the defence that I didn’t quite put two and two together and that also, this one piece of information, along with all the other things running around my head at the time, simply slipped off the radar. I trust this is all completely understandable to Your Honour and esteemed members of the jury.

The Berlin Diary, Day one

Thursday December 2

Maja:

Waking up in the hostel and I keep feeling surprised about how nice this place really is. The beds are completely comfortable and we’re alone in the room. I slept OK, but I’m still tired from the journey yesterday. I’m quite excited about being in Berlin. I’ve never really been here before. I mean, I’ve been here once, during a trip after high school with a bunch of my friends, but we were only here for one night, so I didn’t really get to experience much of it. Berlin has been a place I’ve always wanted to come back to. And now I’m finally here. The shower feels amazing, and I pretty much have everything I need right here. Dressed and ready, we find our way to the local supermarket to buy some breakfast, which we eat in the well used common room/kitchen which is filled with people. No-one is really talking to us and we don’t make the effort to talk to anyone. We’re still a bit incognito, we haven’t even got a guitar yet. So what we need to do is to find a decent guitar shop so we can start with what we actually need to do. We take a walk down the east side gallery, in other words, the Berlin wall. Then, when we’re finally able to read the map a little bit better, we manage to stumble into the guitar shop which turns out to be a little repair shop with some expensive looking guitars for sale in the back. And the people in there don’t seem that chatty, so we go to the next guitar shop that we find on the map. That also turns out to be a little repair shop but this one is run by an Englishman called Gary, who seems to really enjoy a chat. We tell him what we’re about and he gives us the directions to a music store that’s big and is going to have everything we need. Yes. I’m delighted, finally we’re getting somewhere. After having a really nice chat we start the walk to a store called Just Music, which is huge. It’s a five story music shop and on every floor they have a theme. You could literally spend the whole day there without any problems, testing out everything you need. But me and Mark have been walking the whole day and we’re getting a bit tired now. We just want to find the equipment we need, and then go home so we can actually start with what we need to do tomorrow.

Mark:

It’s all very well having the car in Europe now to ferry stuff around in, but with Maja initially flying to Sweden and me flying here to Berlin, we couldn’t possibly bring the big things we needed. We’re talking about a guitar, with attendant guitar bag, and PA speaker, and trolley to carry it around on. Well, we would have needed a new guitar anyway as the one in Ireland can’t be plugged in, which is vital for our setup. But speaker and trolley? Forget packing that little bundle into carryon, so here we are.

Back in Ireland I made a bit of a mistake when looking for music shops; I looked up acoustic shops. Which is why we end up in luthierland and not guitarshopland.

So, thankyou Gary who couldn’t have been more accurate in his description or more fitting in his enthusiasm for Just Music. It’s the biggest music shop either of us has ever seen. I thought DLX in Sweden was big. And it is huge. But one floor of this place is bigger than DLX and it has four floors. Keys, drums, guitar and bass, and sound, each floor also stocking other equipment loosely related to its speciality. Actually there are five floors if you include the miscellaneous lobby. Oh. Six floors. It also has a restaurant thing at the top. It’s big, OK.

Maja:

OK.

Mark:

These kinds of decisions are always tough, but it’s great that the staff are so uniformly excellent and knowledgeable in their fields. The attendants on each floor totally do the thing they sell, so the guy guiding us through guitars is a serious gigging musician, and the guy who takes us through speakers is a fully functioning DJ. It’s fair to say the people in here really know their stuff. We find the acoustic guitar section and it’s almost impossible to know where to begin to find The One. But when we’ve picked out our favourite three from the hundreds of guitars they have, we’re delighted when our guide, without having seen our choices, makes two recommendations and we already have those exact models in the music room ready to try out. Yes. The music room. Little silent havens off to the side of the main rooms where you can go and play all you want and also try different amps, all in your own time and all in private. It’s a wonderful facility to have and we make the most of it. Our new friend suggests a guitar amp or two in here that could also work with the vocals. We put that under consideration but say that we will also venture downstairs to the specialised speaker place. But first, to try out what we have here. We have a few that we really like, but when it comes to actually playing them, they don’t quite sing to us. Then we come to the Cort, which is one of the recommendations. And yes. This will be ours. That done, we then get taken to see the guitar bags and find the perfect combination of soft and hard. Hard case for flying, but also superlight so that we can carry it around on our backs to gigs without any hassle at all. OK. Speaker next. 

When we get down there, we’re taken straight to something that looks small and powerful but is really expensive and makes no sense. Is this what they call entry level here? Then, when our new friend here takes us for a closer look at it, he starts to talk about where the batteries go and my penny drops. Oh. They think we want something for busking. No no no. That’s not what we’re looking for at all. We clear that up and we’re taken into the DJ room to look at the real gear. As we do, and we talk about the kinds of things we need and what we’re really looking for – no DI for the guitar for a start thankyou very much – we start to get treated with a little more respect and understanding. Professional to professional if you like, and the whole tone of the conversation changes. Right, the guy realises. I’ve got two people here who at least have some idea of what they’re talking about, and a whole lot of experience. How can I help?

The way it’s set up in here is that all the speakers are set up around the room, halfway to the ceiling, all as if in a nightclub. Then our friend goes into a little cubbyhole type place to stand behind a desk. I have the guitar plugged directly into that desk and he flips a switch, and with that I’m playing through a different speaker. This makes it really easy to identify the one we want. We’re now also talking far more sensible and logical prices than what we began with. And we’re looking at sensible weights too; we can’t go too big or heavy because, we explain, we have to be able to put it on a trolley, along with microphone stands and stuff, and walk around with it, sometimes for considerable distances. More than that, we have to know we’ll be able to pick the whole thing up and carry it up and down stairs, much like I have so many times with gigs around London so I know exactly how this on foot transit thing is supposed to work. While we’re talking about stands, we have a little chat here and decide that yes, we will also buy a stand for the speaker rather than try to find a suitable stool or table for it each time. Besides, such things aren’t always available, and a stand is so much more professional and practical anyway. 

So, great. Now here we are and practically set up. Guitar, case, and speaker with stand. All we need to finish the job is the aforementioned trolley. No idea where to go to buy one of those, but that can be a mini project for tomorrow. But then, just as we’re about to pay for all this stuff on the ground floor, I see exactly what we’re looking for. They have a whole bunch of little lightweight collapsible trolleys down here. Now we have something to put the speaker on to take it ‘home’ as well. Perfect. That really is job done. 

Maja:

I find it quite cool that we’ve managed to buy everything at once. And it was quite impressive how the sound guy at the PA department slowly started to realise that he was dealing with professionals who actually knew what they wanted. I don’t really believe that you should have to prove that you really know your stuff before you’re properly attended to at a store, but it was very cool that, once we did, to see how the attitude towards us changed. 

The Berlin Diary, Day two

Friday December 3

Maja:

We need to test the gear that we just bought so we’re setting up in the function room. The function room is a big hall that once upon a time used to be used as a breakfast buffet. On the blackboard behind the deserted bar desk you can read “OPERA breakfast buffet all you can eat €7,5.” There are a lot of tables scattered around the place with the chairs upside down on them. On one side next to the window there’s an art exhibition with paintings of bottle-like objects. We’ve been told that we can use this hall as a rehearsal space, but it is also used as an office by a guy sitting in the corner with a computer. We ask him if he’s OK with us rehearsing here, which he is, before we set up our equipment. We need to check that the new PA is working, so out of the box it goes. And up on the PA stand. And we plug it in the power jack. And it doesn’t come on. Aww come on. Really? We just bought this thing. Can’t you just turn on? It can’t be true. 

As Mark frantically tries to turn it on in different ways, I go behind the bar to try to find a different socket. Yes there’s one here. ‘Mark, let’s try this one instead!’ Mark carries the PA to the bar desk and we plug it in. The light goes on. Yes. Crisis averted. So now we can finally actually start with what we need to do. We find a little better placed socket and start setting everything up. Mixing desk, two microphones, PA, guitar, mic stands and our little mashed up music stand. Everything goes up and that’s great. I’m really not that used to using the mixing desk yet, so Mark shows me what goes where and we try to get our sound together. It’s hard to get something that sounds decent. I think it’s because of the enormous empty hall we’re in. It has an incredible echo to it. It’s just so loud. And it is hard to hear myself, even standing slightly directed towards the PA since the delayed echo keeps coming at me drowning out every single sound I make. But in some songs it is actually quite cool hearing myself like this, with a ton of natural reverb. Like in the song Freefall. That song really feels good to perform like this. So as soon as we’re done we pack our equipment tightly on the trolley, and we have a large backpack with the cables and mixing desk and the guitar case can also be carried on the back. So when I have the guitar case on my back, and Mark has the backpack and trolley we can carry our whole gig setup. It’s light, but it is still a decent gig setup that we think is going to be decent enough for a pub with maybe 70 visitors. It’s perfect for us. With this, we can walk to most venues and just set up and play. Now we just need to find somewhere to play. But first, let’s sort out the parking.

We extended the parking yesterday at the hostel, but now I feel we have time to actually find out how to park around here. We get in the car, drive across the bridge into Kreutzberg and almost immediately find a free parking space about 10 minutes’ walk from the hostel. Problem solved. Now we can return our focus to the gigs.

Mark:

Ten minutes’ walk away. Are you kidding me? Damn, my legs are angry at me right now. I really fear they might not talk to me for the rest of the day.

Maja:

We have a gig on the 19th already booked at Artliners in Friedrichshain, so we decide that we want to go there to say hello to Yvonne who booked us and maybe on the way we’ll find some venues that seem promising that we can go in and hustle for a gig. Basically, convince them to let us play. We set out on our walk in the cold. I think it’s touching zero degrees outside, it’s really not that comfortable and it’s very wet. Quite yucky to be honest. It’s not the weather where one would enjoy a nice little walk outside. But I think that is in our favour. Only serious people go out when it’s not nice outside. Only the real rock stars would venture out in this.

We see a sign that is green and to me it looks like a sign belonging to a nice pub, so we decide to go in and try our luck. ‘Mark, let’s not go here, it doesn’t look right,’ I carefully say after we get a little bit closer. We start to see that under the sign is an entryway to a garden of sorts. ‘No, if we don’t dare to enter a place, we’re going to get nowhere,’ Mark insists. ‘Uhm, that’s not it Mark. I don’t think this is what you think it is.’ I continue to insist. We go in anyway. We get in the little garden, have a look around and realise this isn’t a pub. It’s a school. We laugh and continue along.

We go into a couple of more venues on our way to Artliners. A couple are not very encouraging, but there’s two that actually are. One of these is the third that we walk into, a venue called Fargo and the owner there seems very stressed but also very interested in us and asks us to come back early next week, since he is leaving for Hamburg during the weekend. The other interesting one is called Zumt Und Zunder. When we enter there, we’re told that the manager would probably be interested, but she won’t be there until a coup+le of hours later. Perfect. We’ll be back. To both of these places. 

When we finally reach Artliners we realise it’s a venue for musicians, complete with stage, but it’s full and Yvonne isn’t there right now, so we decide to come back later and go get some food first. What that really means is that we’ll go hustle a little bit more before eating and then getting back to chat to Yvonne. Perfect plan, right? We laugh as we go down the cold street, and a heavy metal bar catches our eyes. That looks nice, doesn’t it? It’s a bit different from our music style, so I feel like I don’t really want to go in. But I see Mark light up. If you don’t ask, you’re making it a no already. I can’t argue with that. That’s the mentality to have and it will become something of a catchphrase in the coming days. I think Mark looks cool as, guitar on back, he opens up the doors to the venue. It’s a very heavy metal bar. Skulls everywhere and you hear bands that would probably be called something like “I will kill your children” or “Eat dogs screaming” or something horrible like that. I know my metal, but not to this extent. I’m not really sure how a place fitting for the band “Eat dogs screaming” would like a pretty little song like “All kinds of wonderful.” Well, it’s hit or miss, but to hit, you need to at least swing. The lady at the door is adamant that she won’t even let us even ask a question before we’ve shown her our vaccination passports. And left our contact information. we’d be done in the time it takes for us to check in there, but it is calm so we don’t have to stress that much about taking up her time from other customers. The conversation goes like this: 

‘Hello, we’d love to play here.’

‘No, we can’t have any live music here because of our neighbours.’

Here we think, fair enough, time to leave.

‘Thank you very much for your time.’

‘Wait a minute.’

‘OK?’

‘There’s this bar nearby called Bretterbude, they can have music.’

‘Oh, thank you very much.’

‘It’s just down the road in that direction, and then a right turn at the intersection.’

‘Great. We’ll go there and ask. Thank you very much.’

‘Good luck.’

And now we have a little lead. Somewhere to ask that has music. Great. We thank her and leave the venue with a new bounce in our steps. 

A couple of minutes’ walk and confusion later we manage to locate the venue. It’s pretty much the same feeling. To me it feels like we never even left the first place. We don’t take any time to hesitate but open the door and walk right in. And it is the same procedure as everywhere; vaccination passports and contact info and we ask the lady checking the information who the manager is. Turns out that she is, and she is called Ileana but she doesn’t speak English very well so a nice lad, Robert, sitting at the bar, helps with translation. Great.

‘Hello, nice to meet you Ileana. We’re a rock-pop duo and we’d like to play here.’

And then Ileana and Robert talk a bit in German. 

‘You can come and play here at 10 pm.’ 

‘Great, tonight?’

‘Yeah.’

‘Awesome. Thanks a lot. We’ll see you then.’ And then it feels appropriate to leave, so we leave without even getting a proper look at the place. We bounce down the street in pure joy, singing, ‘we’re playing a gig tonight.’ As reality starts to hit we realise we’ve barely performed any of the songs and we’ll need a strong and hard setlist to satisfy that crowd. So we go for dinner at a fast food-like schnitzel place next to the hostel, and as we eat we write down the setlist on the receipt. Which we forget and leave at the table. Of course we do. But the job is done and we somewhat remember what it is as I put my lyric sheets in the right order; we’ve barely been able to rehearse some of the songs, and everything has been done during such a short and intense period, so I haven’t had the opportunity to remember all of the lyrics. As we get to the hostel room, I get into the shower. We have time, so I put our newest song, Insanity, on the speakers to give myself at least a chance to internalise the song. I sit down on the shower floor, feeling the warm water heat up my body as I focus on the one track demo I have on the speakers. This is what we call the one-microphone guitar and voice demos that Mark often performs and records to help us remember the songs. They’re a great tool for us, but they’re nothing that we’re going to make public. It’s the songs in their infancy, which is everything that exists right now for most of them and exactly what we need. And it’s wonderful sitting here in here in the shower, listening, singing along and mentally preparing to go up on stage. For the first time here in Germany, Mark comes and joins me in the shower and sits down next to me. It’s a quite big shower, and we let the water wash away the cold and nervousness. We don’t have time for stage fright. Tonight is going to be hard. It’s going to be a collection of upbeat songs, and we’re going to have to be really confident doing it. As always actually. Time flies and we get ourselves ready. Stage clothes on, bags packed and we’re off once again. To our first gig in Berlin.

Our first gig in Berlin. Our first gig on our European tour. Our first gig since our debut at The Trap back home in Ireland. After our first day of hustling for gigs. Today. Right now.

We reach the bar around 10pm. It’s full with people sitting at tables everywhere drinking and talking, and we stand in the middle of the floor confusingly looking around the place. Not one table is open. And no space is empty. Mark slips in and says hello to Ileana. And he comes back and says: ‘We’re playing over here.’ And signals with his arm towards the area in front of the bar. ‘Wait what, there’s no space there.’ Mark looks as perplexed as I feel. This is just impossible. There’s no space there for us. 

Mark:

What Maja’s just described me as doing is exactly what Ileana did, although she did it a lot more off handedly. Almost as an afterthought, which is exactly what I suspect it was. She was caught, stumped for a second, then casually swept her hand across the room. ‘You can play there.’ There? There? I didn’t say anything, but yeah. Again. What Maja said. 

Maja:

OK, so let me describe how it looks in this bar. Imagine a rectangular room. You enter the room on the long side of the room. On your left you have a bunch of tables, and on the right you have a bar and a bunch of tables. Left of the bar, there is a room with a pool table and toilets, and of course even more tables. There’s not that many people in that room. The bar is on the right short side of the long room, as I said before and in front of the bar there is a little bar table for two, where Robert and one other guy sits, and on the right side of the bar, next to the entryway there is also a little table, I think it sits four to five people there. There are also tables in the middle of the room, so the floor really isn’t an open space. 

So when you hear this description, you might understand the sheer feeling of impossibility we have when we hear that we’re supposed to set up right in front of the table in front of the bar. In the little pathway that you would use to go from the front room to the back room in this venue. There’s no space. 

Mark:

I’ve got to a lot of gigs with bands and we’ve seen the space we’re expected to set up in and we’ve thought, ‘how?’ But this is the first time I’ve ever been confronted with such a thing and thought, ‘This is impossible. Not going to happen.’ Yep. I really think this one isn’t going to happen.

Maja:

Oh well. We start off with finding where the electricity is. There’s a power socket at the entry side of the bar. Great. That means that we can plug in the PA and mixing desk over there. Mic stands up, mixing desk rudely on the table as we have to ask them to move their drinks to make space for us. We also have to ask Robert to move so we’re able to navigate the leads behind his chair. Yes, it’s that crowded and crammed that we actually have to pass leads around a punter, who is very accommodating and cool about it, but still. Despite all this, everything goes smoother than we might have thought, and before we even realise it, we’re ready. Mark goes around the bar giving cards to people, and I stand in the middle of the floor for a little while just observing the room and the people inside of it. Straight behind me sits Robert, and behind him is the bar. Mark is going to be on my right and there’s the table of four or five people to my left. Also to my left is the speaker up on its stand, and behind me is the mixing desk. In front of me are more people, many of them sitting in big groups around big tables, slightly elevated. In the backroom there is a group with Swedish rockers. I chatted with them a little bit before and they expressed excitement about seeing us. Cool. Really cool. The bar is buzzing and it is time for us to start. Mark comes back, we do a minor soundcheck, and we’re ready. 

Mark:

Yeah. That going round and giving cards thing. A really useful exercise. It’s of course good for telling people who we are and what we’re about to do, but here it also allows me to gauge some kind of reaction from people who have come out to a metal bar and are about to be regaled by a pop duo with a single acoustic guitar. Metal fans actually tend to be quite broad in their musical tastes and you’ll find more ABBA fans, or admirers, than the international metal community would ever admit to. Even to each other. So as I go round and tell people what we’re about, there’s a lot of genuine interest, especially when I tell them we live in Ireland, are on our European tour and that this will be the first gig of the venture.

Maja:

We’re on. We start right off with ‘Smile Is Going Round’, then off to ‘I Like You (Better When You’re Naked)’, and then we introduce ourselves. ‘Hello we’re The Diaries, we’re from Ireland and this is our first show of our European tour!’ I’m not quite sure we’re from Ireland, but that’s our base so it’ll have to do. You got to say something. I think we get quite the response from the audience. People watch us, and some are really getting into it. The rest of the show just rolls on. Song after song, and some get more reaction than others. Two songs from the end the bar manager tells us we have one more song, so we finish with ‘Rock ‘n’ Roll Tree’. Applause and we thank everyone. As soon as we finish, the guys at table to our left gives us two shots they’d bought during the show in preparation for this moment, and praises our attitude and courage playing a place like this. The shots are black, and I’m not sure what they contain. Cheers, and we down them. They’re spicy and half of mine goes on my white shirt. It feels fitting getting a little bit dirty after a gig like this. We’re walking around the place taking down our gear feeling like rock stars. Everyone is talking to us, and we get a lot of praise for being gutsy and courageous and for what we’re being told is our punk attitude. It feels really cool.

Mark:

Punk attitude. I never thought about that. But yeah. Really cool to be thought of like that being, as we are, basically a pop act, albeit with what we would like to think of as something of an edge. Then, when I’m in the toilets a little while later, I’m spoken to by a guy wearing one of those T-shirts with a band name that’s impossible to read. I’m sure you know the look. And the kind of sounds those particular bands make. He introduces himself as Julian and says he really admires our attitude. ‘You guys have a lot of balls coming in here, setting up and doing what you’ve just done.’ Well, thankyou very much. 

Maja:

It’s amazing to be getting the responses we are in here. A lady who doesn’t speak English gives us a fiver and says something along the lines of ‘really cool played, but you’re not quite loud enough for a venue like this.’ Ouch. But fair play, we’re really not a heavy metal band. But you know what? It was really cool to start off playing in a heavy metal bar. 

Mark:

I was told that Maja’s first gig in The Trap, essentially a cover bar band in our small town of Clara, was a baptism of fire. Fine. Yes it was. But then to go from that to a heavy metal bar in Berlin? That’s out of the frying pan into a bigger frying pan. And she’s come through again. Well, we both have.

Maja:

After packing up, we have a beer each on the house and sit around talking to people. Then we thank Ileana and the barman and the others, and leave. We’re bubbling with energy, and Mark wants to go back to the other heavy metal bar and thank the lady there for her recommendation of this venue. So we go back that direction and see her standing in the entryway of the venue having a smoke. Great. We don’t have to go in and search. We go up to her, thank her for the heads up, and then we have a lovely moment when we’re able to tell her that we’ve now already played there. She is absolutely surprised and delighted. Great. Thank you. And off we go to drop by Artliners in search of Yvonne. She’s been and gone. Oh well, it can’t be helped. We went and found and played a gig in the meantime, she’ll understand. So then we go for our last stop of the night, Zumt Und Zunder. Perfect. It’s an artsy bar, and we go into it and take a seat. I stay there as Mark goes to the bar to buy us beer. I sit down and write a message to my brother, ‘We’ve just played a gig, and now it is time for us to start searching for the next one.’ I hit send and look up from my phone. Mark is standing in front of me holding two beers.

Mark:

I was waiting for her to finish whatever she was doing on the phone and look up. Now I have her attention, I say, ‘We’re playing here tomorrow at 8 pm. I just spoke to the manager.’

Maja:

Oh. My. God. 

That was quick. In complete surprise I write to my brother ‘Scrap that, we just got a gig here for tomorrow at 8 pm.’ Crazy. So we sit down, and enjoy our beers while discussing the gig we’ve just done and the one we’re going to play right here tomorrow. The feeling is wonderful, it’s just amazing.

When we’re ready for home, we walk through the freezing Berlin streets. Tired and very happy, we reach our hostel room ready to sleep. We open the door and start unloading our gear into the small entryway of the room. Then Mark says, ‘Where did this come from?’ He’s pointing to a backpack. Oh. ‘Mark, we have a roommate.’ The shock is immense. I mean, it’s fine getting a roommate, we live in a shared four bedroom dorm afterall, but I sincerely did not think that they would put another person in our room especially during covid. And in our hurry to get out for the gig, we’d left the place in a mess. Whoever it is isn’t here right now so we frantically and start to tidy up so that our new roommate will have space for their things in the morning. With all of our gear we’re taking up a lot of space in the room. With the room cleared up and us a bit nervous about who the new person could be we go to bed, maybe at 2am. He comes in about 4am and as he does I slightly wake up and check the time. I’ll say hello to him in the morning. Good night. 

Mark:

We’ve done it. We’ve proved we can come to a city, where we know nobody, with no leads, and just go out onto the street and get gigs. And we’ve already played one of them and had a positive reaction. At a heavy metal bar of all places. Corona and all its attendant restrictions may yet close in around us and end this whole tour thing. But what it can’t do now is end it before it’s begun. We got there first. Berlin, we are here.

The Berlin Diary, Day three

Saturday December 4

Maja:

‘Good morning.’ We say as our new roommate starts to wake up. His name is Didier and he soon proves to be the most chill person and perfect roommate and actually a really good friend. He shows a lot of interest in us, and we talk about our music and sing a little bit for him as he gets more and more dragged into the story. When we tell him about our gig tonight, he actually says that he’ll be there. Which is amazing. That will make him the first person ever to have actively turned up to one of our gigs. Thank you very much. 

Mark:

A lot of my nervous energy before we arrived here was tied up in thinking if this thing was even possible. Could we just turn up in a city, walk round and hustle venues that didn’t actually have bands regularly, or even at all? Well, the answer now is very much yes. Two gigs booked, one played and one to come tonight. Wow. And against all the stress and general busy times in getting here in the first place. I think we settle into the rest of the relieved, with a lot of pressure taken off. And with a hell of a lot done too to be fair. So today is definitely time to chill and that’s what we do. Just take it easy and get out for tonight’s gig when we’re ready.

We do that, but also decide to try to get some hustling done on the way. It’s fair to say that doesn’t go very well and is a little frustrating. But really, however early it may be, it is still Saturday night and bar managers aren’t around to talk to so we pull out of this idea and agree that Saturday is not a day for gig hustling. 

Instead we go get a pizza and then make it down to tonight’s venue, Zumt Und Zunder. All is quiet when we arrive but we’re assured it will get busy. Which is quite cool actually as it means we’re able to set up and soundcheck in private. This can often be a mildly delicate process, especially in a new venue as you set your sound levels and the management says you’re too loud and should turn down. But that’s fine. Turn down we do, to everyone’s satisfaction and declare ourselves ready. This place is split into three rooms with open entryways between them. We’re in the corner of the middle part with a large table in front of us, two or three other smaller tables, then the games room in the room ahead of us and to our left the main bar area. 

Just as we finish soundcheck, Didier, our room mate from the hostel, turns up. Cool. He is now the first person to ever come out and go to a venue deliberately just to see us. He settles down with a friend and we join them for a while before showtime, sitting at a table a few metres from the front of our area.

By the time we start, the large table has been taken up by one big group and as soon as we’re into the first song, it’s clear we’re too loud for them as they instantly stop talking and begin to play mime at each other. We instantly clock this and turn down. Then they start talking again and I feel a bit relieved at that. It would have been an absolute disaster if they’d left and we’d been seen to cost the bar such a big table. Not long after this, we’re asked to turn down again. Oh dear. It is starting to look like we’re a bit too up and energetic for this place. Did they really just want background music? We have a few more gentle songs in our setlist so we start to pull them out. But through all this, we really do feel a few things start to happen, not least with Insanity, our latest song. For a start, there’s a guy in the games room playing fussball who’s totally forgotten the idea of playing and is transfixed with us. We see that when his friends try to exhort him to play, not only does he refuse, but he gestures towards us and reverses the exhortation to get his friends to leave the game themselves and join him. And off to our left through the bar area, right over at the far end by the main window, a table of three people has totally stopped talking with one of them having turned her back on her friends to face us. They certainly haven’t stopped because we’re too loud because they’re far too far away for that to make a difference.

So on we go with the main table in front chatting away, but even a few of them paying special attention, and with one or two people dotted about the place really here with us. And our little table of two friends. All around, the rest of the place is just carrying on, but we’re just doing our thing. Applause throughout is a touch erratic and there are no huge raptures, but it seems people are just going about their Saturday night. A few seconds after we finish you would think we’d never been there, and the manager is more concerned with us making the area useable again rather than offering any thoughts. OK. We take our gear down and go and join Didier and his friend. Once we’re set up with a few drinks – on the house so cool – I go and speak to the manager who last night was so enthusiastic about us playing tonight. She’s lukewarm on the idea of us coming again and cites toughening Covid restrictions as a reason. Whatever. She’s being perfectly nice but there’s no comment at all on what we’ve just done, merely thoughts that it might not work in the current environment. We conclude she just wanted us to be background music in the corner, out of the way. And we have absolutely no intention of doing that. We part as friends but even without her thoughts, or non-thoughts, we’ve decided this is not going to be a venue for us. But we’re also still learning our equipment, still really getting more familiar with our material and, this is still only our third ever gig, bizarre as that might seem. So, for a learning experience, it’s been great and it’s much better to do your learning in private, such as what works and what doesn’t, what hits and what doesn’t, and really how to position your sound. It’s all been happening here, we were given the opportunity and for that we’re grateful. Once we’re ready to leave, everyone says their polite goodbyes and we head back home. Yes, wherever we happen to be staying, we’re going to be referring to that as going home.

Maja:

It just keeps on getting tougher and tougher. We started off with a cover band venue in Ireland that was incredibly anti any kind of original music, but they still turned out to love us. After that it was a heavy metal bar, and they were mighty impressed with our gutsiness and attitude but we couldn’t quite be big or loud enough. And now we’ve played an artsy venue where we just couldn’t be small or quiet enough. That feels the hardest one to me. Before this we’ve been expected to be more and more and actually take a venue by surprise. To be ourselves and be big and have a lot to offer. But tonight we were expected to tone down. That’s just not us. It wasn’t a pleasant experience to get that kind of feedback, or non-feedback. It’s like if Nirvana or Red Hot Chili Peppers played there, they would be told the same. Well, I got new gigging experience which is invaluable, but other than that, let’s move on strongly as always. Playing as if to Wembley stadium at every venue we go to. 

The Sweden Diary, day one to fifteen

Day 1

Tuesday December 21

Mark:

Another day another pack up and go as we prepare to leave Berlin. All the way down five flights of stairs. Yes people, we’re on the fifth floor, not the third as advertised. It is a really big job to get everything out of the room, onto the landing, then get it all the way down the stairs to the courtyard, through the hostel, out onto the street and then finally across the road to the car. Back and repeat. Now it’s a three hour drive to Rostock for the six hour ferry to Trelleborg. And from there, just a 25 minute hop to our housesitting apartment in Malmö. On the boat we manage to claim just the best spot, a full on couch at the front facing out onto the open ocean for a wonderfully relaxing trip.

In Malmö and it’s out for a lovely evening with our hosts and Maja’s longstanding friends. 

Maja:

I am so happy to be able to meet Adrian again. Adrian is my homie, my friend that I treasure beyond the world. I am absolutely delighted about meeting him. He is one of the very few people in the world I feel completely relaxed being with. We meet way too rarely since we’ve been living far away from each other for the better part of our adult lives, but everytime we meet we both treasure it and it feels like we’ve never been apart. We’ve decided that me and Mark will house-sit his and his girlfriend’s apartment while they are visiting their families for christmas and new years. It’s a perfect match; we get somewhere nice to stay with all amenities you miss in a hostel while we rest up for our next adventure, and they have someone to take care of their house so they won’t have to worry about burglars or anything. And I guess they just want to be a bit nice to us which is greatly appreciated. 

When we arrive we share a wonderful meal of their favourite local dish of falafel and then continue along to the local brewery for some beer tasting and gossip.

Malmö, we’ve arrived! 

Day 2

Wednesday December 22

Mark:

We have this place for the next nine days, leaving on January 1, to where we still don’t know, but probably Prague. With New Year on the horizon and the traditionally quiet subsequent days and weeks, we don’t expect anything to be happening there for a while either, so are envisaging a week to ten days of just getting our bearings and rehearsing, possibly identifying a venue or two around the town and maybe even speaking to some of them if we can. But for now, we’re going to just totally take it easy for a day or two before we set ourselves up to begin rehearsals and consolidation.

Maja:

As a university student I used to live in Lund, the next town over, so I know the area quite well. I was a student at Lunds University where I got my masters degree in Computer Science and Engineering. So this place is very familiar to me. I really look forward to taking Mark to Lund one day and just walk around there and show him all the places. After graduating I got my first job in Lund as well and lived there for another couple of years. I pretty much went back and forth between Japan and Lund, living in both places to and forth for that time period. Lund to me is the place I was living in when I turned from a kid to an adult. I’m originally from Stockholm, but I haven’t spent that much time in Stockholm as an adult, so I am very excited about showing Mark my adopted city. The city that I first made my own. 

Day 3

Thursday December 23

Mark:

I wake with a song idea and get right to it. Six Sense Lover begins. Before Maja’s even up for breakfast I have a pre-chorus, chorus and what I think will be a second verse. More lyrics that fit the form get written during breakfast, then we’re back to it properly shortly afterwards. By a little time after midday we have a first draft of a full song. Later on, thinking it needs a little more, we return to it and add that little more. Now it feels done.

With that, we take ourselves out shopping for Christmas supplies.

Day 4

Friday December 24

Mark:

It’s Swedish Christmas this year which is celebrated on the 24th, not the 25th as I’ve always known it. So Maja’s in charge for a full Christmas dinner spread of small dishes, almost Spanish tapas style. Brilliant. After that, it’s the main event which I’ve heard a lot about. The whole of the country stops apparently to watch what is essentially a one hour advert for Disney as we’re taken through the years all the way back to the beginning and right up to the latest releases. Got to admit, it’s really good fun watching cartoons like this and hearing well known Disney characters speak Swedish.

And yes, it really, truly feels like Christmas. 

Maja:

Merry Christmas. This is my first Christmas ever away from my family, and it is with a strong feeling of sadness that I prepare the traditional dishes. But at least I’m not alone and it is really fun to introduce all the fun little traditions to Mark.

I serve him the traditional ansjovis potato gratin (Janssons Frestelse), oven baked mustard ham (Julskinka), boiled potatoes with pickled fish (Sill), and some smoked salmon. And of course, Mark loves the Janssons Frestelse the most. He is a fishy guy that Mark. 

To me it feels good to at least have the traditional food, when I can’t go visit my family for christmas. At least I give them all a call. 

Day 5

Saturday December 25

Mark:

Today is just Saturday. Christmas has happened. Now, finally feeling somewhat rested and more alert than we have for a while, we get properly stuck into Diary writing for the first time since getting here.

Day 6

Monday December 27

Mark:

We haven’t been out of the apartment since Thursday. So it really is time for us to get out and have a proper look at this coastal city for the first time. It’s a big enough place with a population of around 350,000, and a lovely shopping square leading to the main town which is dominated by the Triangeln shopping centre. All this is less than ten minutes walk from the apartment which sits right on the edge of the main district. Sales are underway and the streets are bustling but freezing cold. You really don’t want to stay outside too long, so indoor shopping centre it is. Once in there, you feel like you could be anywhere. 

Day 8

Wednesday December 29

Maja:

I can’t believe I’m getting properly sick. Again. I’m so incredibly sick of being sick. It feels like I’m sick all the time. And now it feels like I’m catching something really bad. I need to call Adrian and tell him. It’s with a feeling of embarrassment that I call him. There’s really no way around it. I am house-sitting and turning very ill. I think that I may have Covid. If I do, they won’t be able to go home when they need to. I feel so bad about that. Well, I need to make the phone call. So I do, and both Adrian and his girlfriend are incredibly understanding. They even have Covid tests in a drawer, so both me and Mark test ourselves with a complete conviction that they’re going to show up positive. They’re not. Both are negative. I’m not quite sure if I’m supposed to be relieved or not at the result. But the tests are antigen tests and the covid variant Omicron that is everywhere now isn’t showing up on the antigen tests that often. So it could still be covid. But maybe, just maybe, it’s just a cold and I’ll be back on my feet in a couple of days.

Mark:

We need to look at this in a bit more detail, but from what we can tell right now, Corona restrictions may well be starting to drive us east. We’d already decided on Prague as our next destination and were thinking of heading back into Germany after that, possibly Hamburg. But as we start to catch up on the news, harder travel restrictions are being put in place all over western Europe, especially Germany. Some eastern countries are looking, on the face of it, like they might be better for us. We’ll be leaving on Saturday so we really have to start making this decision now.

But today we begin to have something else to think about. Maja’s feeling ill. For now I feel OK but this really doesn’t look good.

Day 9

Thursday December 30

Mark:

We have to accept the tour is over. At least for now. The Corona situation in Europe is worse than we thought and travel just about everywhere is looking prohibitive. Oh well. We always knew this could happen so we’ll just be happy that at least we managed to get Berlin and show just what we could do if we only gave ourselves the chance. But as well as the tour ending here and now, symptoms of some kind or other are starting to hit both of us now. And that’s along with a heavy tiredness that started in Berlin and which neither of us has been able to shake. With all that going on, we haven’t been able to get rehearsal done at all and we really thought that would be a big part of this week or so off the road. It’s time to consider options. Are we just going to go back home to Ireland? As we’re seriously starting to consider this, the possibility of an apartment in Stockholm comes up which would be available to us until at least some time in February. Which means we could stay on the mainland of Europe and ride this out in Sweden. Which would mean we would still be on mainland Europe if and when things do open up again. It would be a long way to drive to Ireland and then to drive back out here again. Would we really do it? No idea. So yeah. We’re going to Sweden.

But wow, we really have threaded the tightest of needles. Looking back, our first show was in The Trap in Clara on November 6 and we declared ourselves ready, for the first time, to actually play a full show with all our own material on November 5. The day after the show, Maja flew to Sweden to have wrist surgery. Which meant that, factoring in recovery time, the very earliest she could drive to Berlin from Sweden was Wednesday December 1. Thursday saw us buying the equipment we needed that couldn’t be brought by plane which made Friday the first day we could try to actually play. Which we succeeded in doing, also playing a show the next day. From there, we had just over two weeks to tackle Berlin which we very much did until our last show on December 19, just as the whole city closed for Christmas, and now we’re looking at a Europe that has pretty much closed for Corona. From starting all this in earnest in May, we really did just make it into the very last two week period we could have played in, and we couldn’t possibly have been in Berlin a single day before we were. And while the tour might be over now, it’s so vitally important that we got at least Berlin in to demonstrate to ourselves that what we’re doing really can be done, and that our songs really can have the effect on audiences we were confident they could have. Yep. Eye of the European Corona needle. Wow. 

But for now, we have to take care of for now. Which means going and getting another test because we really don’t believe the negative result the home kit gave us. So we drive to a testing centre about 20 minutes away. On arrival, we see the queue is huge. And it’s cold, although at least not raining. But still. You’re sick, you have to go out and get tested, and in order to do that you have to wait out in the cold, and possibly the rain. It takes us two hours to get to the head of all this and briefly into the relatively warm refuge of the small, temporarily raised testing building. If we weren’t sick when we arrived, we probably are now. But no. We fit all the symptom profile but again, tested by professionals this time, once more we come out negative. What is going on? I’m just feeling a bit yucky but it’s getting stronger. Maja is just not good at all. Today really can’t have helped. But even today it still wasn’t a PCR test, just the normal 15 minute antigen test we did ourselves, just administered by professionals this time. We still don’t trust the result.

Maja:

It’s horrible. Everything is just horrible when you have to stand outside for 2 hours with a 40 degree fever.

We have to talk to Adrian about staying longer. I don’t think I can handle an eight hour drive in two days’ time. 

Day 10

Friday December 31

Mark:

New years is cancelled. And today is no holiday for us either. Maja has decided to book a PCR test. First thing in the morning. She wakes me and says, come on. We have to go now. Today’s testing centre just happens to be in Lund where Maja went to university and then spent the first few years of her professional life. We go and get her tested in a car park and try to get a test for me too but are told no. Fine. If Maja comes out positive, we’ll just assume I am too, although we’re kind of assuming all that right now anyway.

We’ve been meaning to come to Lund for me to get a look at this important place in Maja’s history and a drive round it today is really the best we’re going to get as it’s clear we’re both on our way to being sick by now so a bus ride and a walk around and a visit to any of Maja’s old favourite haunts really is not on. A drive round it is and I get to see Maja’s old apartment, all the university buildings that mean so much, and the office block where her professional life began. It all really adds context to see this part of her history so far away from London and what I know. There’s not much activity outside, but I really get a feel for this place as we drive through whole sections of the town dedicated to university buildings. And then a drive through the small town centre itself. But Maja is starting to struggle and we only just make it to the end of the tour when she says we really have to start the drive back now.

On this drive back, if we had any doubt, it becomes painfully clear that Maja cannot make the eight hour drive to Stockholm yet or any time soon. She gets home and heads straight to bed. I stay up and spend the rest of the day alternating between watching movies when she’s asleep and being in the room with her when she’s awake. As midnight approaches we hear fireworks outside and I go and have a look from the bedroom window. Yes, they can be seen all around in front of the apartment which is facing a large semi circular crescent. Nearby and beyond the buildings we can see, fireworks are being set off and can be seen exploding all around above the buildings. Maja forces herself up to come and join me at the window as we watch the intensity of the fireworks increase and count down the last 10 seconds of 2021. She was in Sweden for this last year and we counted down together while I was in London, an hour behind. This time we’re both in Sweden. The last second ticks down and 2022 arrives. Before the first minute of the new year is out, we’re both in bed. 

Maja:

I really struggle right now. Everything hurts, my fever just won’t go down no matter how many paracetamol I take, and I need to get my hands on a PCR test. When I wake up I once again open up the fully booked web system to see if there’s any new times available and I’m in luck. There’s one today. In Lund. But we need to leave now. I wake Mark up and force myself up and to the car. The parking space is a 10 minute walk away and there’s at least a 10 minutes drive on the highway to get to Lund. The drive isn’t fun, but I’m still quite alright. 

I’m quite happy that this enforced drive takes us all the way to Lund, because I’ve really wanted to show it to Mark. So after taking the PCR test, we drive around and I try to tell him a little bit about the town. I show him my school and office buildings and some buildings I’ve lived in. But it all is very forced and I have a hard time enjoying it. After only a very short drive around town, not much more than five minutes, I realise that I need to go to bed now. I can’t hold on much longer. Sightseeing is cancelled and I take the fastest route back home. As we’re on the highway I feel so bad that tears are running down my cheeks as I desperately try not to pass out. 

Well, back in bed and I don’t move until just before midnight when I get up to count down the new year with Mark and watch the fireworks. 

Happy new year.

Day 11

Saturday January 1

Mark:

I wake and realise this thing, whatever it is, has fully got me now. I get up and leave the room with vague intentions to write but soon realise, no. Can’t. I immediately go and join Maja back to bed. With the bedroom having an en suite, we will barely leave this room for the next two days. We already knew our hosts were going to stay away while we were sick. Today they tell us they won’t be here until at least next Saturday. Hopefully we can get well and get out of here and back to Stockholm by then.

Maja:

Mark’s got it too now. That’s not good. We’re both too sick to take care of each other or ourselves now. I can’t walk to the kitchen. It’s just too far away. We don’t attempt to eat for days. Our diet consists of tap water from the bathroom, two metres away, paracetamol in a desperate attempt to lower our fevers, and the odd cracker.

Day 12

Sunday January 2

Mark:

Maja’s PCR result comes back. Negative. So that’s that. Good news we suppose, but that doesn’t change the horrendous way we both feel; even a walk to the kitchen is an intimidating prospect beyond either of us right now.

Maja:

I don’t understand how the test could be negative, and I don’t believe it either. This is the worst I’ve felt in ages and Mark is just as bad. We can’t and won’t move at all. 

Day 13

Monday January 3

Today is the first day both wake up feeling somewhat OK but we don’t push it at all.

Day 14

Tuesday January 4

A good job we didn’t try to push it yesterday. We’re thinking we could consider leaving for Stockholm tomorrow but when we get up and try the lightest of household tasks, we soon collapse back in bed. Nope. This feeling good thing is just an illusion. Maybe if we take today as easy again, we can start to get things organised tomorrow with a view to maybe leaving on Thursday. 

Day 15

Wednesday January 5

We think we’re going to go have a last look at the town today but the weather closes in on us and it gets far too cold, wet, and not at all fun to be out. But still, we have made it out and walked a decent distance. We’re starting to feel ready to tackle things now. Back to the apartment and we start to get all our stuff together and tidy the place to make it look brand new, although we’ve kept it in pretty good shape this whole time. But yep. We’re definitely planning on leaving tomorrow.

The Sweden Diary, day 16 to 67

Thursday January 6 to February 25

Mark:

And we’re off. All packed and cleaned and out of the place by 11am and on the road to Stockholm. It barely takes any time at all to be on the motorway, and then this fast road will take us all the way there. Eight hours later we arrive. The apartment is up three flights of stairs, but this is nothing like the hostel situation we had in Berlin. It feels like a much shorter and more doable trip up and we’re soon done and all sorted. Set up at our new home for the next segment of whatever this is going to be.

So what is this going to be? Not much really. We have a look around but Stockholm feels like it really isn’t going to be anything worth playing so we decide we’re not even going to try. Instead, with the occasional excursion out we pretty much hunker down in the apartment waiting for Europe to open again. In that time we eventually recover fully from whatever was happening in Malmo and establish some kind of rehearsal pattern again but it takes a while.

Oh, and there’s the cold to get used to. The apartment’s fine, but venturing outside is a whole other thing. Some of the temperatures we encounter are the coldest I’ve ever experienced, with some days dipping below 14F (-10C) so into the double minus figures. Only a whole multitude of layers will see you through. But even then, when, one day, we bravely set off on something of a mild hike through the frozen local forest, we get to a stage where our legs are uncomfortably cold through our trousers. A common enough thing for Maja in these conditions, but something I’ve never experienced before. Night times – and are occasional forays out late on – could see drops of up to (down to) minus five fahrenheit (-20C). Quite ridiculous territory really, and not entirely fair. Maja takes all this in her stride. Literally, as she teaches me how to walk on frozen ground, which we have to do more often than not, especially as we often have vast fields to walk across. The trick is to kind of semi skate, or at least glide your feet forwards rather than lift them like you would when walking conventionally. It takes a little while, but I do somewhat get the hang of it and can at least pretend that I might belong here. A word on those fields. They get covered in snow, naturally enough. Then on a relatively mild day, that snow melts, totally waterlogging the place. But then, what is now water freezes and the whole vastness takes on the appearance of a frozen lake, or at the very least, a series of what now looks like frozen ponds. Amazing to look at and exhilarating to walk across, especially once you’ve mastered the art of the run and slide.  

Back in the apartment, and once we manage to properly get back to it we really work on ourselves and take our overall performance to a whole new level. We also manage to add a few new songs. Within these is the one we’ve been wanting to have for a long time – Beanie Love. This is based on a set of lyrics we wrote in the first few weeks of London after we had just met, and based on a mad, surreal conversation we had during that time which inspired those lyrics. We have lyrics all over the place in a dozen notebooks and every now and then, some of them turn into songs or have parts of them turn up in songs. Well, in Berlin we got the Beanie lyrics out and did something with them that we really felt had potential. During this downtime in Stockholm, we dust them off again and have a look at what we did in Berlin and get it fully into shape. With that, Beanie Love is done. Another one to mention that comes up during this Stockholm period is Fire. This is one that will continue to grow for a little while, but the basis of it is all there in that first flush. Among other pokes into the waters, we manage to have one quite spectacular evening when we write eight to ten songs one after another in a burst of inspiration and improvisation. A look at this a few days later shows that while none of them are total keepers, there are some interesting and workable ideas that may well be looked at closer. How many of them, or how many of their component parts, will pop up into anything keepable we have no idea, but the adage of songwriting is certainly being followed. Just keep writing. Just do it and the likelihood is that two things will happen. Good parts and good songs will be produced if by just the sheer weight of numbers and the probability of statistics. The second is that by the very act of doing it, you will continue to get better. Songwriting is a skill like any other that gets better with practice. It is true that anyone can get lucky and come up with a great song at anytime but, to slightly paraphrase the wonderful words of legendary golfer Gary Player, the harder you practice, the luckier you get. 

About that practice thing, we’ve really upped our game here and have been rehearsing in the most unforgiving manner – through headphones. This is kind of like what I’ve always imagined driving a super high performance car would be like. Get everything perfect, and boy does that thing fly and look super cool. But one little error and flying takes on a whole other meaning. Where we’re concerned, when everything is on and things sound good, it can be like listening to yourselves on the radio as you’re playing there in the moment. But conversely, if things are even slightly out in any way, boy do you know about it. And with everything going through our mixing desk into headphones, we’re also recording every rehearsal so are able to listen back. So even there, parts you thought might have sounded good, you sometimes discover really didn’t. Or, more to the point, don’t. We are putting the harshest of spotlights on ourselves here and really analysing and discovering so much. If you really, truly want to know where you are, and really truly want to up your level, there can be few better ways of doing it than this.

Into the last week of February and we’re coming to the end of our apartment’s availability just as Europe is tentatively starting to open up again. But at the same time, the Ukraine situation is showing real signs of deteriorating and we realise a Russian invasion could actually happen. So no way are we going east and driving towards a potential warzone. With that, we decide we’re not going to Prague which we’ve had in our plans since the beginning. We don’t want to return to Berlin, although while we’re here, a little word on that particular city. A few venues seem to have woken up as we’ve started to work our way into the new year, and have replied to our initial emails, sent before we left. They’re interested in hearing from us again the next time we’re there. Great. Add that to the little pile we’ve gathered of friendly Berlin venues. However, if we are to return, we don’t want to do that without having had a little more live experience first. We look at the map of western Europe and shortlist a few possibilities. After a little discussion, we settle on Hamburg. That’s it. We’re on again

The Hamburg Diary, day zero

Saturday February 26

Mark:

We did um and ah quite a lot before deciding on coming straight to Hamburg. We’re aware Corona restrictions are still in place and won’t be relaxed until next week, but we’ve thought it could be good to chill and get our bearings for a while, then when things do open up we can kind of hit the ground running so to speak.

We’ve only got two relatively short drives to get to Hamburg from Stockholm. A few hours to the Swedish port of Nynäshamn, then two hours or so the other end from Rostock to Hamburg. In between is an eighteen hour ferry trip. We weren’t able to book a cabin so we’ve resigned ourselves to what might not be the best night’s sleep on some kind of couch thing somewhere, should we be lucky enough to snag something like that. But no. This isn’t that kind of ferry. Instead, all the seating is on one deck of the nine it’s made up of, meaning aeroplane type seats in huge rows all over the deck. But somehow we’re one of the first people on which means we’re able to get ourselves a row of four seats right at the front of the deck in front of the huge windows looking out to sea. Not only that, but we’re able to inflate the double airbed we’ve been able to bring. We’ve also brought sleeping bags and pillows. With that, we essentially have a cabin right at the very front of the ship and now feel like we’re travelling in totally relaxed luxury. As the ship sets sail, we sit in our seats, reclined with our feet on the bed, and pour ourselves cups of some kind of Japanese citric wine. Yeah. We can manage 18 hours like this. We chill for the evening, then as night falls, it’s in bed to sleep until the sun comes up bright and spectacular in the morning. In between, at 10pm, four hours after leaving, we make a scheduled stop at Gotland, a Swedish holiday island, where just about everyone gets off and hardly anyone else gets on. This creates a bizarre situation where, for around an hour, we’re the only people we can see. Alone on a ferry in the middle of the sea. Even once the new arrivals are on board we’re able to stand at certain points and look all the way down from front to back and not see a single person. Pandemic and upcoming European crisis may have just combined to make this happen with people still holding off on travel plans. We don’t know but it is all very strange.

When morning comes, by 9am-ish we can see distant landfall and have a wonderful chill on the bed in the sun watching the busy sealane while contemplating the gradual encroaching landscape before us. There’s none of that usual travel feeling of, ‘Are we there yet?’ No. We could quite happily stay here all day and another night. As it is, we casually pack up and leave for the car around noon for the drive to Hamburg.

Maja:

I have long lost count on how many ferries I’ve been on, but the whole concept of even being able to buy a ticket for a longer trip without a cabin is new to me. Usually when I get on a ship I like to spend the majority of the time in the cabin sleeping and preparing for the adventures the next day but today we don’t have that opportunity. Having learnt our lesson from our first ferry to Ireland, Mark waits with the car while I get to reception as quickly as possible to try to get to the top of the list for possible cabin cancellations. Standing in line there, I overhear the receptionist explaining to an eldery woman that they’re fully booked. The inquiring lady then asks, in that case, would it be OK for her to inflate an air mattress. The receptionist replies that that would be fine. Yes. This is perfect. I ask the receptionist the same thing, just to inform her that I plan on inflating my air mattress as well, and she is apologetic and encouraging. Great. So we manage to get some seats right at the front of the ship as the other seats are slowly filling up. There seems to be a high school trip to Gotland, and the ship is very lively with a lot of youngsters making a lot of noise with a fair bit of drinking going on as well. Children are running around, crying and the guys on the school trip are talking very loudly just behind us. And then I go forward and inflate a big air mattress. The pump is loud and I can feel the stares in my back but I don’t care. It’s better to get this over with before people fall asleep. As soon it is inflated I lie down on it and just internally laugh at the absurdity of the situation. It is actually quite fun. I’m the only person comfortably lying down in this area. Also, the cost of the air mattress and sleeping bags are cheaper than the cost of a cabin, and this is way much more fun. In a bizarre way. 

Some strange japanese liquor in our cups and we talk the evening away and sleep wonderfully the whole night. In the morning we warm ourselves up by singing a couple of songs and playing some guitar while watching the horizon as Germany gets closer. What an amazing part of the trip this has turned out to be. 

Mark:

We are totally giddy with excitement in the car as we get closer. Then, shortly after 3pm, we’re suddenly on the Reeperbahn on which our hotel is situated. Wow this is bringing back memories. I was here twelve years ago in 2010 with my Madrid pop punk band Drunken Monkees. That time when we were fresh off recording our album and thought a German trip, starting in Hamburg, would be the way to try to break ourselves, or at least get something going. We had a wonderful time here and made quite a few useful contacts before we realised that the shoulder injury I was carrying wasn’t going to go away and I wasn’t going to be able to play at all. So we called it a holiday, stayed a while longer then headed back to Madrid without having played a single show. And where the first thing I did was go and get shoulder surgery in which some kind of calcium ball about a centimetre wide was removed from between the bones of my right shoulder. No wonder I couldn’t move the thing. But we still managed to create a lot of memories and make friends, and here I am again. We find our hotel and unload our gear – on the first floor this time. Result. Then it’s off to find a parking spot, a task that takes a frustratingly long time and we still don’t manage to find a free area. But we eventually find a reasonably priced place a little walk from the hotel, so we accept that for now, go back for shower and rest, then take a walk out to have a look at this place.

Maja:

Hamburg is vibrant.

HELLO HELLO!!! The Reeperbahn is breathing life like a monster. It’s alive. It’s been a while since I saw this many people and everyone seems to be after a good time and a good night. We walk to a kebab place for dinner, and then off to the London Pub for a celebratory pint. Tonight we’re celebrating arriving in Hamburg and hoping for as much success and experience as we can get. And I get to hear a lot of stories of when Mark was here with The Drunken Monkees. 

On our way back to the hostel we take a walk to the BeatlesPlatz and down the street next to it which is full of nightclubs. All around is crazy but this street is absolutely deserted. It is clear to see that Hamburg is still suffering from the Covid restrictions which we knew, but it is feeling a little bit strange. So the town feels really vibrant and alive. The streets are totally full of people, but dancing is still banned so the clubs are closed. I’m not even sure why there are so many of the people here or what they plan to do, but since the pubs are open I guess that they make do with that. The whole thing gives me a bizarre feeling. The combination of things being closed and alive at the same time. And little do I know, but this feeling will soon get stranger.

Mark:

The nightclubs might be closed but this place is still alive, alive, alive. And I’ve never seen such a concentration of entertainment venues like the Reeperbahn and its nearby areas. I’m sure there will be a lot of cover band activity, but it really seems like almost every second venue we pass is a potential place for us to play. On the immediate face of it, I’ve never seen so much possibility.

And, for people of a certain stripe, there’s an abundance of possibility of another kind. This place is full, and I mean, full, of sex bars of all kinds of varieties. It’s so open and full on, you can’t really even call it seedy, although what goes on in these types of places I have no idea and I have no intention of finding out. 

Oh, but our hotel room looks out right into the back of one of those sex places, the very biggest one with silouhettes of naked girls in various positions plasted over all four stories of its pink walls. Turning our back on this scene we head out into the night to get a closer look at the city and begin our participation in it. We’re not quite in the mood for a packed and crazy place so I decide to head to The London Pub, first for what I remember being its more chilled vibe, and also because I hung out in here a lot when I was here and got to know Tina, the owner, quite well. I wonder if she’s still here. Unlikely given the time distance and whatever Covid has done to these businesses, but you never know. If she is here, I’m hoping for a friendly face in a strange town and maybe maybe someone to help us get a bead on how things are round here and what kind of places might be good to focus on. No surprise that Tina is no longer here. Left a good few years ago, but the new boss is a good friend of hers so the connection is still there. And while the place is relatively chilled enough for us to get a comfortable spot at the bar, it’s still busy enough for the two staff to be kept rushed off their feet so there’s very little chance for chat beyond a snatched word here and there. Just the one drink here and we discover we’re starting to hit the wall. So back to the hotel it is. We’ll have another look at this place tomorrow. 

Right. That Drunken Monkees Hamburg thing, and the Drunken Monkees experience in general. If you’re interested in reading about that, I covered it in detail in Mark’s Diaries along with the whole of my six years in Madrid in a breakout section. You can find that here: https://marksdiaries.wordpress.com/category/professional/2017/september-2017/

To find the beginning of my time in Madrid just search for ‘The Madrid Story’

Hamburg begins at part nine. Or you can search ‘Album done, summer here’

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